Lyman Main Spring Compressor Tool?

Getting the main spring out was not too difficult - putting it back was a challenge.
I ended up using my bench vise to compress the main spring and carefully slide the rod off of a smooth surface of the vise jaw into the tumbler pocket.
I only shot my bench with the rod once.
Is there a better way?

Link

This is a vise made just for mainsprings.

I thought the lyman had a coil main spring... :idunno:

It does.

I'd need to see the main spring , lock and tumbler set up to be sure but this should be adaptable to your situation in some fashion. I assume from your description the main spring is a coil with a guide rod down the center with a stud flange at one end that fits into a tumbler pocket and the other rod end goes through a keep hole of some kind.
If this is the set up than what I have done is to use a slim nose vise grip and a leather patch to protect the rod from the jaws.
In practice one places the guide rod into the spring coils, put the jaws of the vice grip around the patch and adjust the handles to grip the rod tightly through the leather patch. Now slide the open end of the rod through the padded vice grip jaws and compress the spring by pushing the padded jaws against the spring toward the flanged end. When it is compressed as tight as you can get it lock the jaws and this should keep the coils together on the rod allowing you to place the keep end in the keep hole and the flanged end into the tumbler pocket and once lined up simply release the jaw tension.
It will be obvious the jaws need to be used near the tips to clear the lock plate.
The coils are kept by the guide rod and the vice grip handles allow you to push side ways against the spring coils while you control the compression with the second hand on the vise grip handles.I like to put the flanged end of the guide rod in a copper padded bench vise to keep the it under control. Easy to do, hard to explain. MD

That's exactly how I do it.

" Easy to do, hard to explain. MD"
I think you explained it well, better than I could. :thumbsup:

Rip:

I became sufficiently frustrated with this task that I engaged the hair topped computer to concieve and fashion a specific tool. I took a cheap screwdriver with a large diameter shank and cut off the blade, then filed the end so it looks like a capital letter "D" when viewed from the end. The taper from end up to the shank is about 1" long. Centered just a bit inside the straight side of the "D" is a dimple made by center punch and 3/32" drill bit.

To use, first assemble the lock except for the strut and spring. Secure the plate flat in vise or clamp to bench top. With the forward end of the strut in the boss on the plate, engage the pointy end in the dimple, with the flat side of the tool down toward the bridle. Push the strut forward, sliding the tool on the bridle, until just forward of the seat on the tumbler, and tilt the tool down to release the tip of the strut. Works on locks from Thompson Center, sidelock CVA and now Lyman.

DANGER, Will Robinson! Always wear safety glasses when doing something involving springs!

White Fox, in the People's Republic of Boulder

nmdd said:

I thought the lyman had a coil main spring... :idunno:

Click to expand...

Oops! I'm not a Lyman owner. :v :haha:

I made a similar tool using a 3 inch piece of 1/4 inch rod. Works like a champ. The only thing I did differently was to round off the tip so I could get the tool out easier.

Thank-you for the great methods.
I need to acquire a better collection of vise grips - the one I have is too big and clumsy.
I have some old screw drivers ready to be sacrificed to the cause.
Regarding the leaf spring compression tool - Track of the Wolf has one on sale for $7. This is $7 well spent!
The $45 Hammer Spring Compression tool for the Ruger No.1 that Brownell's is selling has not been mentioned. It looks like over-kill for what I am doing, and modifications might be needed anyway.
Again, Thank-you!

I went over to a Harbor Freight Store and browsed around for a spring compressor and I found it. A 4" ratchet bar clamp/spreader (on sale for $1.99). I cut a notch in the front (plastic)jaw that goes around the end of the spring rod and it works like a charm. 4" Rachtet Bar Clamp There is a button that releases the rachet when it is time to let the spring bar seat in the Tumbler. I didn't have to do anything to the other jaw; in the uncocked position, the spring rod does not extend beyound the main spring boss. :thumbsup: There is so little removed from the jaw that I can actually use this clamp for other things! :thumbsup:

The plastic jaw broke. It needs some metal in the jaw. :redface:

Again the narrow nose,long bill vice grips and a leather patch work like gang busters and can be adjusted to any width.I just installed a frizzen spring with it and they are lots smaller and more delicate than any main spring. MD

Take the rock out of the jaws, open the frizzen, hold the trigger sear up and let the hammer down as far as it will go,,
,,this puts the spring and guide rod in it's most relaxed position.

Hold the lock in the palm of your hand, and grab the pointed end of the guide rod with a needle nose pliers with your other hand.
It's not so much a "grab" as it is just holding the plier tips against the rod end.
Slide the rod back and out, ,
,,this action takes about 4 seconds. :idunno: