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Lubricating Aluminum Molds

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DanC

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According to the instructions given with Lee bullet molds, when casting you should (paraphrasing) 'lubricate by lightly touching a bullet lube (Lee Bullet Lube #90007) to the sprue bushing, “V” ribs and locating cross pin.' OK, ...

What do you use to lube a hot mold?

How often do you do it; what do you look for that tells you it needs relubed?

Dan
 
In my experience the v ribs need it any time the mold stops closing 100%. The hinge and sprue pivot get it at the same time, and frankly a problem has never developed with them. The v ribs are the main culprits.

And I've never used bullet lube. I've got some household silcon lube of some sort around here, and I usually use that.

As for how often? Not till the v ribs get cranky- maybe every half dozen casting sessions, and I tend to cast a lot once I plug in the furnace.
 
BB is right, them pins and V's need the lube if dry they won't close and the ball ends up with a center line tween the halves,
,a little lead get's in between and it get's worse.

I use Permatex Anti Seize, the automotive stuff used on spark plugs an bolts. It's rated to take 1400 degrees. Just a touch will do it, like take a pipe cleaner or toothpick and apply just a little. The sprue cutter pivot and a little on top to help it swing helps too.
Ya don't want anything IN the rounded ball section at all.
Some guy's use smoke from a candle or match, I neve rhave.
 
Ooooh! Anti Seize and high temp bearing grease! Better than silicon, I bet. Might even cut the lubing back to once every 12 casting sessions!

Thanks!

BTW-

The only real trouble I've had with LEE mold sprue cutters is late in a casting session when both the lead temp and the mold temps are highest, and I'm getting tired and impatient, swinging the plate a few seconds too soon even if the lead is actually set.

I get some smearing of the lead on the bottom of the plate and it gets harder to swing. Then I clean it off with a wire brush, slow down, and finish the casting session.
 
Thanx, ya'll! Quite a bit of good info there.

I have 2 large cans of copper based high temp antisiezing compound.

:hmm: Let's see now:

2 cans / ( 3 touches / 12 sessions) = :confused: uhhhh ...

Forever! :grin:

I'll try it and, if it works, I should be good for a while. :thumbsup:

Dan
 
Well, I did try it and the anti-sieze seems to work fine. The copper color sure lets ya see where it ends up if you get too much too! Fortunately was able to keep it well out of the mold cavity.

I ended up just piggin' the lead tho because I was melting it on a Coleman white-gas stove, and it just wasn't gettin' things hot enough. Took a long time to melt too. Hate to use the burner on the barbeque, but maybe I'll clean it good when I'm done and call it good.

'Preciate all the help.

Dan
 
DanC said:
Hate to use the burner on the barbeque, but maybe I'll clean it good when I'm done and call it good.

Nah, I wouldn't be castin where you expect to prepare foods later.
I use a coleman stove, an seems ta git the job done just fine, but when I cast there's a significant "splash-n-spatter" effect going on.
That coleman stove I use is now pretty much designated as the casting stove, it's peppered pretty good with lead specs all over.
I could probably clean it up with alot of work an time, but I could also get another stove at a garage sale for $20 instead.
 
necchi said:
Nah, I wouldn't be castin where you expect to prepare foods later.
I use a coleman stove, an seems ta git the job done just fine, but when I cast there's a significant "splash-n-spatter" effect going on.
That coleman stove I use is now pretty much designated as the casting stove, ...
Yeah, kinda what I was thinkin'. This is an old stove that needs some work. Maybe I'll watch the garage sales and see if I can find something. Thanx.

Dan
 
I have never lubed a mould, Lee or Lyman. I used to smoke the Lymans but quit when I didn't see any reason to continue. I heat my moulds by putting them in the molten lead. When lead won't stick to them any longer I start casting. Works for me.
 
I know they make the moulds and should know what they are talking about. But, with 40+ years of casting behind me, I have never had a problem and have never lubed a mould. I used to smoke them but quit when I determined that was a pointless step. I also quit using flux materials in the lead. They just float and do nothing for the lead. I simply stir and skim frequently. I'll match my results with anyone.
 
I have found that a good high temp. grease will lube the pins and joints nicely, just don't get any into the bullet cavety or you will get a bunch of wrinkled balls until it is melted out. But for lubing the interior of the mould (bullet cavity) to make the ball release easily, I just smoke the mold. I use a Bic lighter and just lay a a light coat of smoke in the cavety.
 
Same on the fluxing. I just use needle nosed pliers to pull the top layer of impurities off. I do lube the moulds, but don't worry when the grease lube finally evaporates.
 
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