Brass vent liners are junk!

Well that is interesting. It is stainless steel and is set up with an allen wrench for easy removal. I just figured it was made that way so it could be removed.

I am not sure if I will take your advise and leave it alone. When I remove it, I can inspect it, check the threads, force a lot more water through the barrel and the vent, clean the threads on the rifle, and I really see it as a bother.

Perhaps I will only remove it every so often.... thanks again.

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I remove mine every time and will continue to...it's just something I want to do when cleaning and lubing after a shoot.

And if you think that may or may not be necessary, get this:

When I'm cleaning a flint lock assembly after a shoot, I remove the frizzen & frizzen pivot screw every time...clean & relube the frizzen bridle, the contact area on top of the frizzen spring, and the frizzen pivot screw before putting it all back together...don't like putting a ML up that has even a trace of residue anywhere on it...that way, if I decide not to use it for a week or a year, it won't matter and I won't worry about it...showroom ready every time.
:redthumb:

Well, if they made it that easy to remove it probably does no harm.

When in doubt, check the manual.

But, they won't work loose unless you work them.

I have rifles with the Removable & Non-removable. I like the nonremovable liners the best as I use Chambers White Lightning liners in this application & they are really good liners that help provide Excellent ignition, and it is faster than the removable types & they self clean batter than the removable types. (IMHO)
But the liners I have that are removable I usually take them out & clean them also when I clean the rifle. I put Anti-seize on ALL of them when I put them back in. (DO NOT torque the vent liners in, just barely snug) If you are chewing up the slot on the vent liners, either the screwdirver didn't fit the slot or you had it too tight.

:results:

Cayugadad, I think you've got the right idea...I don't remove my vent liners as a regular thing, but do take them out every-so-often, just to be sure I can if I need to. The only time I"ve needed to was when I dry loaded a ball and it blocked the touch hole so I couldn't get in with either the CO2 tool or some powder..removed the liner and nudged the ball forward a pit with an awl..got powder in and shot it out...Hank

Well, maybe I'm just lazy, but I've never removed the liner from my .40. I built it in '91 and used a stainless liner and I've never had any problems. It's had several thousand rounds through it. The hole may have enlarged about .001 if that much, not enough to affect anything. I started to take it out one time long ago and found that it was awful tight. I decided then and there to leave well enough alone and not fool with it until it burned out enough to let 3FFF get through it when I rammed the charge. That's when it's time to change it. If you have a liner coned on the inside which gets the powder closer to the pan, there is a shorter channel in it which is easier to keep clean. It is also easier to pick with a wire between shots. We have a fellow in our club who tells me that it wears the liner out if you pick it. The rest of us just ignore him. :m2c: Oh, by the way, I do remove and clean the cone from my Richmond musket after a day of shooting as well as remove the cleanout screw in the bolster. A lot of manure gets built up in there.

Where did you get the liners that take an allen wrench?

Huntin

T/C liners use a hex wrench. They're 1/4 X 28, standard U.S. Currently $6 and change for 2 at[url] Midwayusa.com[/url]. I've rethreaded my Cabela's Hawken to use them (after I stripped out my 6mm X .75 Italian vent). One of the many helps offered by members of this forum to get this gun shooting. All of your combined suggestions have worked great, btw. :m2c: :results:

Where did you get the liners that take an allen wrench?

Huntin

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Yes, TC's redesigned liners are outstanding...fast as all get out...heavily coned inside, large .075" hole in a .030" thick wall, then the large outside hex wrench socket acts like a huge funnel...selfcleaning...never use a vent pick, etc

CLICK THIS URL THEN SCROLL TO THE NEW STYLE PHOTO:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ubbthr...mp;page=4#83622

sorry.. Muzlodr is correct it is a hex wrench not an allen wrench. They come with the liners. I bought them from D&R Sports. They carry the ones for Thompson Center and the Trade Rifles from Lyman. I just put some anti seize on the threads and put that in and out when ever I use the rifle.

Although I found them easier to remove it you first run the barrel through a soap/water bath first. Then it backs right out. After the hot water rinse, it is clean.

What size hole do you have to drill to tap 1/4 x 28?
Just in case I strip mine out and have to repair it.
Thanks.

Huntin

out a huntin'
Yeah right! Like I know this off the top of my head. I'm a HS Accounting and Computer Applications teacher. I went down to our Principles of Tech class and pulled out a tap set. The chart says that for a 1/4 by 28 you need to use a 7/32 or 5.5mm tap drill. Good luck. Some say that the 1/4 X 28 isn't oversize enough and that you should go 5/16 X 24 etc. But, the 1/4 X 28 is working fine in my Cabela's .54 Hawken (Investarms). Fits real tight and no signs of gas blow-by.
:hmm: :results:

You may want to check to make sure you are getting Full threads on that vent liner change, going from a 6mm x.75 to a 1/4" x 28 threads.
Those are close sizes & that tells me when doing so, you may lose about 1/2 of your threads going from a finer thread to a coarse thread in almost the same size ? Not sure on this as I am not a machinst by trade, and I didn't make a test run, but best to be sure before ya go to drilling & tapping I think.

Just because it will thread in doesn't mean it is correct.. I have had rifles come to me no threads or threads on 1/2 of the hole... You need ALL the threads available on this....... not half, part, 3/4, whatever. Be a real bummer for some innocent bystander to eat a flying vent because it didn't have adequate threads to hold it.

:imo:

If you ruin it and have to drill it anyway, why not just drill it for a 5/16" Chambers White Lightening liner and be dine with it. You can get the drill and tap from Chambers too.

Rebel,
I was thinking about that. TOTW sells the liner, drill, and tap as a kit.

Huntin

IMO, my recommended rule about removing the vent liner/nipple before cleaning boils down to this:
The flash or vent hole in Flintlocks is usually about .060 inch diameter or larger and does not have to be removed for cleaning the gun.
Nipples for precussion guns have a vent hole which is only about .030 in diameter so the nipple should be removed before cleaning the gun.

If you want an engineering reason why this is true, the .060 dia hole has 4 times the area of the .030 dia hole. This lets a lot more water flow thru it.::

WATER!?!??!!??!!!!

:cry:

Rat

What Rebel says....them white lightnings really are fast as greased lightning. The ignition speed will BLOW YOUR MIND! YEAH BABY!

Rat

Hoppes :nono: :cry: :blah: :crackup: Wastin' all that good money on that stuff when good ol' WATER works fine. You could be spending that money on caps or flints. ::

What size hole do you have to drill to tap 1/4 x 28?
Just in case I strip mine out and have to repair it.
Thanks.

Huntin

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#3 wire gauge, (.213), is correct for 1/4 X 28.
Regards,
Terry