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GPR and Davis Triggers??

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Fuzzy Sites

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I built this GPR a few years ago. I never really liked the double set triggers that came with it and I have just read a post by a forum member mentioning Davis Triggers which can be used to upgrade the original triggers. Can someone tell me if the Davis triggers are drop in parts and where I can purchase them. In the event that they are not drop in parts can someone describe what it would take to install them. Any info will be appreciated.
MinuteofWhitetail.jpg
 
You are likely to find that any replacement part is going to require a bit of wood removal someplace to get the part to fit your particular gun. There are reports of drop-in parts, which surprises the owners as much as us readers when it happens. :rotf: :shocked2: :hmm:

If you have an exacto knife, some lamp black, or lipstick, you can figure out what needs to be removed and where easy enough. Its usually no more than removing wood when you put together a kit gun. :thumbsup:

With some parts, its smarter to remove a little metal from the trigger plate, for instance, to make it fit your stock, rather than remove wood from the stock. However, wood is generally easier to remove, than steel, and generally, the amount of wood that has to be removed will not prevent the restoration of factory parts. Use your best judgment before you begin the project. Very little wood has to be removed for the Davis Trigger to drop into your GPR. BrownBear, a member here, has replaced trigger on several guns with the Davis trigger, and is a big fan of them.
 
It seems to vary from gun to gun. Mine required that I pull a few molecules of wood off either side of the trigger plate inletting and about 1/64" out from under the front of the trigger plate. It would have worked without that, but I just wanted a slight bit more room. It was all of a 5 minute job, including a bit of finish to reseal the wood. My hunting pard's Davis trigger dropped right into his GPR.

And man what a difference it makes! Worth every penny and all that hard work. :wink:
 
I installed the Deerslayer on my GPR and I couldn't be happier. There was very little wood to remove. I did have to grind a bit off the top of the trigger bars as they were a bit too tall once the triggers were snugged down. I didn't want to bend the sear bar on the new RPL lock I also installed at the same time.

The trigger work only took about 1/2 hour at the most, with most of that slowly taking down the trigger bar height. The wood work was probably less than 5 minutes.

I guy I work with turned me on to the Deerslayer... they were a drop in on his GPR with the factory lock.

I bought mine direct from Davis. TOTW has them also.
 
I took a ride to Dixon's M/L Shop on Sunday and bought a Davis Deerslayer set trigger assembly for my GPR. I put them in tonight. They dropped right without and inletting and everything went back together as smooth as silk. That made me happy as I may want to reinstall the factory triggers some time in the future and I want them to fit properly. I have encountered a problem however. When I set the front trigger the hammer drops. I figure I'll have to remove some material from the top of the triggers as it appears the tops of the triggers are contacting the sear bar prematurely. Here's my questions.
1.) Am I correct to remove material from the top of the triggers?
2.) Do I need to remove material from both triggers?
3.) How much material must be removed?
4.) Am I wrong about removing material and is there something else I should be doing?
Thanks in advance for helping me with this problem.

Fuzzy Sites
 
Just a thought, but try setting the rear trigger.
Other than that, couldn't tell you. :surrender:
 
I assume you mean you are pulling the rear trigger to "set" the front trigger. That is how they work. It will trip the sear bar if you are only pulling the front trigger... it shouldn't trip the sear bar if you are pulling the rear trigger.

I had to grind a bit off the top of my Deerslayer trigger bars when I installed them on my GPR. However, I was installing an RPL lock at the same time. I didn't try them with the factory GPR lock.

Its just like everything else... go slowly, only remove enough to give the sear bar safe clearance. I would take a bit off, reinstall the trigger and work the lock and triggers to check.
 
Yesterday when I posted, I figured I would have to remove material from the top of the triggers so I followed Old40Rod's advice. I needed a little reassurance before I started modifying my nice new triggers and Old40Rod provided that. I took a little bit of material off then reinstalled the triggers and tried it. I did this several times before I felt I had done the job corectly and the gun would be safe. I ended up only needing to work on the front trigger as the top of the rear trigger is well below the front trigger. Once I was able to visualize how things should be working it was easy. I was able to use a file to trim down the top of the front trigger as it was not extremely hard. The trick is to take just enough material so there is a little play between the front trigger and the sear bar when the hammer is fully cocked and the triggers are not set. The gun works perfectly now. I am very pleased. I assembled this gun from a kit and have shot it a little bit but I have never really spent a lot of time with it. I intend to work up a pet load for it and to give it a good workout when hunting season rolls around. Thanks to all for the advice and patience with me.........Fuzzy Sites




MinuteofWhitetail-1.jpg
 
so I followed Old40Rod's advice

You must be a thrill-seeker. :wink:

Glad it worked! IMHO, the DS triggers are a 1000% improvement over the factory triggers and its an easy upgrade to do. Nice looking rifle and knives also, BTW.

The same process of studying things, figuring out how they work/interact, making small changes and testing as you go, works pretty well when you are trying to solve most BP issues... that and posting questions on this forum.

:hatsoff:
 
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