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help with trigger

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stalkerhawk

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ok am I just dumb.I can't get the hammer to fall when I use the set trigger on my Mt.rifle,and if I use the front trigger it take allot of pull.What am I doing wrong.
 
All kinds of possibilities. Top of back trigger may be hitting wood instead of the sear. The screw that holds the spring on the triggers may need tightening a bit more. Some triggers have a set screw behind the back trigger that limits travel of the back trigger, this may be out of adjustment.

Paul
 
You stated "mountain" rifle, I am to assume CVA?
if so, cva's are notorius for triggers installed incorrectly upon removal for cleaning. This could be merely a simple adjustment of the set trigger group, of which I will let others here elaborate.
After seeing a few others with the same issues, I come to the conclusion that one needs to remove the trigger group and prove it out in hand, out of the stock. then remove the lock group, install the trigger group, check function,and then reinstall the lock. If it is a CVA,they are notorious for this!

But what you describe sounds like screw adjustments!
 
I've tried removing a little wood,adjusting the set screw,and made sure all the screws on the lock and trigger are tight. :cursing: I don't know what else to do.I have to be missing something or I'm :youcrazy:
 
"ok am I just dumb.I can't get the hammer to fall when I use the set trigger on my Mt.rifle,and if I use the front trigger it take allot of pull.What am I doing wrong."
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Just going by the original post, it sounds like you expect the rear trigger to fire the gun.
The rear trigger isn't really a trigger at all, it's a cocking lever for the spring loaded blade that trips the locks sear.

When you pull it back, you should hear a "click" when the front triggers catch latches onto the rear "triggers" spring loaded blade.

Then a light touch of the front trigger releases the rear "set trigger".

Without setting the rear trigger, the front trigger can fire the gun but it takes a 3-6 pound pull to do it.

It sounds like the little adjustment screw is screwed in too far. That could prevent the front triggers catch from latching on the rear "set trigger" so it wouldn't stay cocked.
Try backing the little screw out at least three turns. In fact, it wouldn't hurt anything to remove it totally. Then try your rear trigger and see if it stays "set". If it does, you have fixed it. :)
 
Zonie I meant that when I cock the hammer and pull the front trigger with out setting it I have to squeeze real hard to get it to drop.Now if I cock the hammer and set the rear trigger then pull the front trigger it just clicks if I do this 3-4 times the hammer will eventually fall.I stumped.Is there a replacement trigger I could buy that would drop in with out having to inlet a bunch of stuff.the adjustment screw is good screwed it in and backed it off until it would catch then an extra half turn.I cant see any wood in the way either.???
 
stalkerhawk said:
Zonie I meant that when I cock the hammer and pull the front trigger with out setting it I have to squeeze real hard to get it to drop.Now if I cock the hammer and set the rear trigger then pull the front trigger it just clicks if I do this 3-4 times the hammer will eventually fall....

I have had this happen on a few rifles. It sounds like the mainspring in the trigger is not tight enough. The mainspring is usually at the rear, held by a screw on one end and the other resting against the rear trigger. This gives the power that the rear trigger uses to trip the sear.

Tighten up the rear screw to put more pressure on the rear trigger. Don't tighten it too much or it will pull the rear trigger up and not let the rifle cock without setting the trigger. You will need to find a happy medium with enough force to trip the sear but not enough to hold the sear when cocking.
 
Either the trigger is not hitting the sear hard enough to fire or the lock needs adjusted (full cock notch too deep) if its a CVA Mt Rifle it has an adjustment for the sear, if you take the lock out there should be a set screw that goes down into the full cock notch,it should have a small coil spring on it, turn it in (clockwise) so the sear is not going into the full cock notch in the tumbler, this will make it easier for the set trigger to nock the sear out of the full cock notch and make the trigger lighter in the unset position. If the trigger is not hitting thr sear hard enough you can tighten the mainspring on the trigger to give it more umph.
Longball58
 
There is another post under The Gun Builder's Bench called "correct set tirgger adjustment help".
Check this post for instructions on correct set up on double trigger for a Traditions,under my handle. Don't know this will help or not but it's worth a try. You don't mention whether this gun is new used, under warranty maybe, or even the make, sometimes that kind of info can be very helpful in giving advice about a problem.
 
Its the CVA Mt.Rifle I just built from a kit.Longball that did the trick.The lock and double set triggers are working fine now just a little turn on the screw and walla.Thanks for all the help and info guys. :thumbsup: :bow: I new it had to be something I had never come across before.All I've owned till now have been T/C's never had any problems with the lock or triggers on them.This is my first CVA.thanks again :hatsoff:
 
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