Ruger problems.

I have had a ROA for some time. It has gradually gotten to where it misfires at least twice on each cylinderful. I switched nipples, I had my gunsmith buddy reduce the diameter of a set of nipples. Nothing seemed to help. I think that the main spring is weak. It doesnt smack a cap nearly as hard as my .44 black hawk. It is only marginally better with my conversion cylinder. How hard is it to replace the spring? Anyone have any experience with this problem? Anyone have a source for a stiffer spring. I love this pistol,but I'm thinking about trading it off for a garden tiller. Help!

Ruger will repair & replace what ever is needed, usually for FREE! So I'd send it directly to them. While they have it, they'll check it out for timing, etc. and bring it back to "works-like-new" condition!

Dave

Been there, done that. They sent it back with a clean bill of health and the same old problem. I have never had a problem with Ruger, but this time they dropped the ball. When I say weak mainspring, it seems that everyone I talk to rolls their eyes and tells me to switch the nipples.Most of the springs you see on the aftermarket are weaker yet for smoother action. I am really frustrated with this thing. My 100 dollar POS .36 will bust a cap every bleeping time.

Our local BP league meets this Sunday...one of my friends has a Ruger. I'll ask him if he's ever had the same problem, as he's had his for a number of years too. Maybe he knows something that will help you out of this situation. I'll gather info and report back to you!

Dave

Hey, thanks for your help.I would put a spring in it myself if I can find a stronger one. I am just at a loss as to how to compress it and get it in there. I was hoping someone had a tip in that vein. Seems like everyone elses ROA busts caps fine.

:v Follow the advice and send it back to Ruger----don't mess with it yourself and make the problem worse.IMHO :wink:

I would be more inclined to follow that advice if I hadn't already sent it to them and gotten it back with the same weak spring and a note explaining that nothing was wrong with it and that I must be doing something wrong. I can put caps on it of any brand, on any one of three sets of nipples that I have, including one set for #10s and it will still fail to set off at least one cap. OH HECK, I'm trading it off for a tiller!

Rather than a tiller, you might want to consider a snow blower. Winter's coming. :grin:

After removing the grips and looking at my Blackhawk there doesn't seem to be much that can be done with the mainspring.
Have you removed the grips on your OA and liberally oiled the hammer pivot and other moving things in the area with a light weight gun oil?

slowpokebr549 said:

Been there, done that. They sent it back with a clean bill of health and the same old problem. I have never had a problem with Ruger, but this time they dropped the ball. When I say weak mainspring, it seems that everyone I talk to rolls their eyes and tells me to switch the nipples.Most of the springs you see on the aftermarket are weaker yet for smoother action. I am really frustrated with this thing. My 100 dollar POS .36 will bust a cap every bleeping time.

Click to expand...

Ever detale striped the gun? sounds
to me like you got a cap fragment down in the lock works that is causing your problem. Been there got the T shirt.

Well, the tiller deal fell through. I aint kicking in any boot. I have had this problem child pistol for years. I assure you that I have looked for cap fragments. I have made sure everything is lubed and freewheeling. I am beginning to think that the mainspring must be a booger to replace cause all the so called "gunsmiths" around here all start looking everywhere but at me when I mention replacing it. I think I am going to give Ruger one more try and an earfull about their last so called repair.

In a pinch you can compress the spring on the hammer strut using an old fork with one of the middle tines removed. This should let you get the retaining pin out. Then compress your new spring with the fork and slide the pin back into the hole and reinstall in the grip. I'd polish your hammer strut once you've got the spring off. That might help increase the hammer fall.

As far as stronger main springs, you might try Brownell's or VTI gunparts.

Geez, thanks Zonie, I hadnt even thought about snow yet. Feeding cattle, chopping ice, aching joints..... Now I am depressed. :wink:

VTI,hmmmm..... thanks. I guess any stock strenght spring would be better than what I have. Might have to sacrifice a fork I suppose.Better be a good stout one though.

Wolff lists several, mostly lighter than stock, and Brownells has one for all of 1.49. Guess I really should stop kvetching and just order one. I have some 1/8 "stainless I can make a remover easily enough, I just worry about installation.SPROOOOIIIIING

If you think it's a weak main spring, use the fork method as Bakeoven Bill says and try a small washer or shim between the spring and strut. That will tell you if it's the problem.

Thats a good thought.See, thats why I brought this up. I knew I would get some good ideas.

I have a couple ROA and a Blackhawk too. The hammer spring is easy to get out but following the shimming advice is a good one. The hammer strut on the Ruger single actions are all the same btw.

Numrich will have the new springs you need should you find out that is the problem.

OH GOOD LORD, I am retarded. I decided to shim the spring like Rocklock said. I took off the grips and looked up the schematic ( a la Oldwolf) in Numrich. The spring retention pin is missing. The spring is about 1/8 of an inch less compressed than it should be.I had given up on this pistol about 4 years ago and it has moldered in the safe since. I feel stupid enough for not seeing the problem myself,but dang it, Ruger had this gun and sent it back to me and they didnt catch it either. I had messed with this pistol for so long that I couldn't see the forest for the trees.
I guess it took some fresh perspectives to make me think in different terms. Thanks one and all, and now the retarded fella will wander off to the numrich catalogue mumbling to himself. :redface:

Hmmmm...the retention system looks different from another schematic I found. This one is just a flat plate the whole spring rests on.....that would make it the right length.....could still shim it though...damn now Ima talkin to myself. :youcrazy:

Talking to yourself is ok as long as you don't mind if we listen in. :rotf: