• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Flintlock Rifle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dick Pincombe

32 Cal.
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
My question has to due with a lyman Great Plains Flintlock Rifle. Has any one ever replaced the Lyman Lock with an L&R replacement Lock. Did this improve the actual lag on firing time. Basically was it a worth while expense. I have installed a White Lighting touch hole liner, which has helped. I have also drilled the hole out to 5/64, which has helped. But the lag time is still not what it should be. Looking for HELP.
 
I have a little experience this area so maybe I can help . I use the L&R Durs Egg Lock on the rifles I build and the trigger pull and firing are instantaneous providing the loader has followed the proper loading proceedures. This summer I saw a Lyman great Plains Flintlock on sale at a wallmart for $250 so I had to buy it since I didn't have one. The hammer fall is very slow compared to the L&R and I get misfires on a fairly regular basis when shooting that rifle. I see a sale, trade, or a L&R RPL in my Lyman's future.
 
My flint GPR fires every bit as fast as any of my caplock guns. The only modification I have done was to drill the vent hole out to 1/16".
Are you banking the prime away from the vent and/or picking the hole after loading the main charge? Doing both of these definitely makes a difference for me.
The only missfires I have had were when I first got the rifle and hadn't yet drilled out the vent and a couple of those times I hadn't picked the hole either.
Might depend on what you're using for powder too. :hmm:
Good luck gettin' 'er to shoot right!
 
jethro224 said:
My flint GPR fires every bit as fast as any of my caplock guns. The only modification I have done was to drill the vent hole out to 1/16".
Are you banking the prime away from the vent and/or picking the hole after loading the main charge? Doing both of these definitely makes a difference for me.
quote]
That seems to be pretty much standard advice but in my own testing and that of a friend we have found ignition just as fast and much more certain if the pan is primed rather heavily (I use a 3 grain primer spout) and right up to the vent hole.
I don't think the coil spring locks are as fast acting as flat springs with a swivel link to the tumbler, such as L&R uses on the RPL.
Wheather or not it is worth replacing is questionable, I get along OK with a rather similar T/C lock on my flint smoothbore, it seems quick enough. I have drilled my vent liner to 5/64" and think that probably helps more than any other single thing. That is assuming you are getting a strong shower of sparks from your Lyman lock.
 
Flinter at a Walmart? I envy you... I have to drive three counties if I want to store buy a flint...
 
Dick Pincombe said:
My question has to due with a lyman Great Plains Flintlock Rifle. Has any one ever replaced the Lyman Lock with an L&R replacement Lock. Did this improve the actual lag on firing time. Basically was it a worth while expense. I have installed a White Lighting touch hole liner, which has helped. I have also drilled the hole out to 5/64, which has helped. But the lag time is still not what it should be. Looking for HELP.

Dick
I have a Cabel's hawken that has the same lock and they can be made to work very fast . OK GUYS - I know they ain't traditional with the coil springs . But they do work good .
Have you taken your lock off and cleaned & oiled it ? These lock can be polished and tuned .
What kind of flints are you using ? Some gun like bevel up some like bevel down .
Whay are you useing for powder ? Real Black Powder works best in flintlock.
How are you Priming the pan ? To full /not full enough .
Just some things to look for /or at to help you out.
Slenk
 
Bob,I have a co-worker looking for a Lyman GPR.If you decide to sell drop me a line.
 
mine shots fast.. got a new touch hole from r.m.c then drilled it out.. then got some english flints... thanks great plains... worm. :blah: :grin:
 
CoyoteJoe said:
jethro224 said:
Are you banking the prime away from the vent and/or picking the hole after loading the main charge? Doing both of these definitely makes a difference for me.
quote]
That seems to be pretty much standard advice but in my own testing and that of a friend we have found ignition just as fast and much more certain if the pan is primed rather heavily (I use a 3 grain primer spout) and right up to the vent hole.

Hmmm.... that's strange. I have a Traditions PA longrifle and it has a small lock (uses 5/8" flints). I didn't get good ignition from it until I started priming my pan by putting the powder (3Fg Goex) only on the outside half of the pan. Ignition became virtually instantaneous. Anytime I fill the pan with too much powder (all the way across the pan & level with the top), I get delayed ignition.

I read somewhere by an advocate of the "less is more" method of priming that he had successfully fired his flintlock by slightly wetting the pan, dumping in some powder and then blowing it back out of the pan. A very small amount of powder remained because only the powder that adhered to the moisture in the bottom of the pan was left. So, being the non-believer that I was, I tried it. I was amazed that it worked. I don't advocate doing that on a regular basis, but you might give it a try to see just how little powder it really takes.

By the way, I did not drill out my vent liner. It is completely stock. It is however located in exactly the right spot to make the most out of any flash (in the middle and even with the top of the pan).

Hope this helps.
----------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
Dick, you may find the correct answer to be less definitive than you want. I slapped together a GPR kit for my son this last summer. I ordered a L&R RPL lock before I even finished the gun. The lock came and didn't fit the lock mortice worth a damn IMO so I sent it back :cursing: . Under protest, I used the lock that came with the rifle and, so far, it sparks like a house on fire. For what it is, I can't really complain. OTOH, a freind of mine revamped a GPR for another guy and put an L&R RPL in it. The lock fit quite well and, according to Taylor, the L&R sparks like crazy and the lock that came with the rifle wouldn't spark at all.

Cody

BTW, it sounds like your troubles now could be due to how your priming (as mentioned by others) or TH location.
 
Back
Top