Refinishing the 1847 Walker and percussion pistols

I wanted to start my own thread rather than thread crash the poor soul who've I've been thread crashing regarding Walker pistols! I recently picked this Walker up for a crazy deal that included the pictured vintage Meyer holster. Unlike some of the more talented amoung us I'm not capable of making the kind of holster I wanted ( Slim Jim) and then finishing the leather.
I'm posting to get some hands on feedback. I wanted to take down the bluing of the pistol and have the materials for the job. My question is how to go about it. Rather than removing the bluing entirely I'd like to slowly take it down so traces of faded-blue -turned-brown remain in the recesses.
I havewhite vinegar and EvapoRust on hand, as well as some Birchwood Super Blue paste and Plum brown. I don't want to immerse the pistol but rather use a soft cloth to go more slowly, for gradual vs instant results.
Have any of you done this work on percussion pistols ? By all means please post your experiences and pictures in this thread, looking to gain the knowledge!

This is another gun ( not the one in the original post) which has had it's finished removed.

To be clear I want to remove the finish on my Walker..

I wish you wouldn't. That's a nice looking revolver and a splendid holster.

That's a good looking Walker. I agree with GT. Let the gun wear in naturally.
Think about it. All weapons issued back then were brand new, and kept that way cause the owner`s life depended on it.
Plus ordered to keep weapons cleaned and oiled. A lot of those boys it was the first time to have a brand new shiny weapon.
Don`t understand why reenactors want to have a gun look like its 100 yrs. old, when Quarter master just issued you the gun.
I did the ageing process to a revolver I had about 50 years ago and used a product called Navel Jelly rust remover. Didn`t hurt the metal
and left the gun with a light blueish gray color. I don`t think Navel Jelly is made any more tho. After I did it I wished I hadn`t.
Cause I`m gonna keep my weapon as clean and new looking as I can. Any wear an tear will be honest.
Any way just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
Maurice

That walker looks VERY close as is to the best condition museum grade originals.

I wouldn’t refinish it! The cylinder looks GREAT too.

The only thing I might consider is refinishing the grips. If you look at the originals, even the really nice condition ones still around, they do not have such a shiny gloss finish like the Italians enjoy so much. They are also more rounded and sort of “melted” at the butt of the pistol on originals.

If you did that honestly it’d look real close to how a new one would’ve. One thing you can do if you want to add some patina over time is rub a dirty cleaning patch on the outside of the gun after cleaning. It’ll replicate the original look in time nicely.

Dadgummit, you fellers've talked me out of refinishing! Seriously though, any suggestions as to how to age the grips ?

Smokey Plainsman said:

If you look at the originals, even the really nice condition ones still around, they do not have such a shiny gloss finish like the Italians enjoy so much.

Click to expand...

I disagree. Although I haven't personally handled any pristine original specimens, photographs of them indicate a high gloss finish on the grips.

I personally have never seen an original Colt Walker grips- in any condition or vintage have the kind of Grip polish the Italian repro grips do.

I think the gun looks great as-is, except for the thick varnish on the grips, which still is not bad. I wouldn't touch the metal on that gun.

jonathan butcher said:

I personally have never seen original Colt Walker grips- in any condition have the kind of polish the Italian repro grips do.

Click to expand...

I agree.

The grips appear to have an oil type finish and I’ve looked at a bunch. But this is not “high gloss” and the Ubertis are simply overdone in this regard.

I’m not refinishing the metal, that’s decided. I am however desirous of thinning the heavy varnish on the grip panels.

B P Arn said:

I think the gun looks great as-is, except for the thick varnish on the grips, which still is not bad. I wouldn't touch the metal on that gun.

Click to expand...

https://news.justcollecting.com/1-84m-colt-walker-revolver-is-the-worlds-most-valuable-gun/

That's the kind of finish I'd like to achieve on the grips.

I'd call that 'condition excellent' if not minty. Case colors still there though faded. Grip panels 'condition very fine- excellent'. Original bue mostly there with slight fading. Brass is mustard colored excellence. Add in the case accessories, card from Col Colt himself and the miniscule numbers which were made and you've got a six, excuse me seven figure gun.
A very rare and beautiful condition percussion pistol.

Smokey Plainsman said:

https://news.justcollecting.com/1-84m-colt-walker-revolver-is-the-worlds-most-valuable-gun/
View attachment 41710

Click to expand...

jonathan butcher said:

That's the kind of finish I'd like to achieve on the grips.

I'd call that 'condition excellent' if not minty. Case colors still there though faded. Grip panels 'condition very fine- excellent'. Original bue mostly there with slight fading. Brass is mustard colored excellence. Add in the case accessories, card from Col Colt himself and the miniscule numbers which were made and you've got a six, excuse me seven figure gun.
A very rare and beautiful condition percussion pistol.

Click to expand...

The finish was most likely achieved with a linseed’s or a tung’s oil. You could use many things, even Birchwood Casey Tru Oil from the local gun shop. Rub it on in THIN layers with your hands, working it in to build up heat. Use only about one drop at a time and really rub it in till warm. Allow a day or two to dry (if a moist climate, maybe longer) and repeat probably 3-6 times till you get the desired results. It will look a little too glossy so then what you do is let it cure up for a month or so until it doesn’t smell like solvent or anything then use rotten stone and mineral oil to buff down the sheen to get this satin look.

There are a million ways to do this. Also after stripping the finish you could round out and soften some of the corners like you see on the originals. Be careful not to remove any wood where it touches the frame as that could leave a gap. Also, you could add a little quality walnut stain to darken them before finishing.

What would you use to strip the finish ? I considered simply sanding/ steel-wooling them down but the finish is so thick I'm now thinking a remover is what I need.

Smokey Plainsman said:

The finish was most likely achieved with a linseed’s or a tung’s oil. You could use many things, even Birchwood Casey Tru Oil from the local gun shop. Rub it on in THIN layers with your hands, working it in to build up heat. Use only about one drop at a time and really rub it in till warm. Allow a day or two to dry (if a moist climate, maybe longer) and repeat probably 3-6 times till you get the desired results. It will look a little too glossy so then what you do is let it cure up for a month or so until it doesn’t smell like solvent or anything then use rotten stone and mineral oil to buff down the sheen to get this satin look.

There are a million ways to do this. Also after stripping the finish you could round out and soften some of the corners like you see on the originals. Be careful not to remove any wood where it touches the frame as that could leave a gap. Also, you could add a little quality walnut stain to darken them before finishing.

Click to expand...

jonathan butcher said:

What would you use to strip the finish ? I considered simply sanding/ steel-wooling them down but the finish is so thick I'm now thinking a remover is what I need.

Click to expand...

I use CitriStrip and it works real well and is natural based. Smells of oranges.

Layer on a thick layer and left sir covered in plastic for as long as overnight. It’ll sort of turn to wax and then scrape the wax off with an old credit card etc. and the finish will be gone. Remove any residue with a rag and mineral spirits or paint thinner. Works great!

I really love Tru Oil wood finishes. I found this tutorial on how best to use the CitrisStrip and Tru Oil combo, what do you think ? Can Try Oil be mixed with leather dye for a darker finish ?

Smokey Plainsman said:

I use CitriStrip and it works real well and is natural based. Smells of oranges.

Layer on a thick layer and left sir covered in plastic for as long as overnight. It’ll sort of turn to wax and then scrape the wax off with an old credit card etc. and the finish will be gone. Remove any residue with a rag and mineral spirits or paint thinner. Works great!

Click to expand...

jonathan butcher said:

I really love Tru Oil wood finishes. I found this tutorial on how best to use the CitrisStrip and Tru Oil combo, what do you think ? Can Try Oil be mixed with leather dye for a darker finish ?

Click to expand...

I've not mixed leather dye with Tru Oil but used Fiebings leather dye as a wood stain and it works great.

You can experiment on the back of the grips with a little stain or dye to try and find the color you want. Check out Laurel Mountain Forge stains, lots of rifle builders use it and it’s good stuff. I personally would avoid the common Minxwax brand stains as the color is just muted and bland.

Also be sure to “whisker” the wood before staining and finishing. This will ensure they are nice and smooth and will help the stain make an even color.