That's what I do!
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Uberti Walker replica
- Thread starter B P Arn
- Start date
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A few days ago, in posts 48, 49, and 50, I showed pictures of how I made a paper pattern for a holster. Today I finished making the holster, and took pictures, so now there will be a start-to-finish documentation.
This holster is for my 1978 made Uberti replica of a Griswold & Gunnison revolver, .36 caliber, 7-1/2" barrel. I have never made two holsters the same. This one started as an idea from a picture I saw on the internet, then I added my own touches, and even revised that as I went along.
After I made the pattern, I transferred that to a piece of leather...
I added some decorative details to this one.
^^^ The welt is attached to the inside side of the holster with contact adhesive to hold in in place while stitching.
The holster body has been dyed and a finish applied, and is now ready for assembly.
This holster is for my 1978 made Uberti replica of a Griswold & Gunnison revolver, .36 caliber, 7-1/2" barrel. I have never made two holsters the same. This one started as an idea from a picture I saw on the internet, then I added my own touches, and even revised that as I went along.
After I made the pattern, I transferred that to a piece of leather...
I added some decorative details to this one.
^^^ The welt is attached to the inside side of the holster with contact adhesive to hold in in place while stitching.
The holster body has been dyed and a finish applied, and is now ready for assembly.
Last edited:
Once again, the paper pattern I made...
Here is the picture I saw that inspired me to make mine...
That's a good looking holster.
Thanks for sharing your assembly photos.
Thanks for sharing your assembly photos.
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I'm going to try this method on a Walker I have, during the vid he mentions removing the nipples prior as they'll be 'frozen' after the process. Anyone experience this ?
I plan to remove the blue from my Walker cylinder, but with Evap-o-rust, but I will definitely remove the nipples first.
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I have EvapoRust, is the treatment protocol the same as with vinegar ? Why do you prefer EvapoRust ?
Evaporust is not supposed to etch metal. Etched metal = no bueno.
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I just did my Walker cylinder using vinegar and it couldn't have been easier, taking about 15min from start to finish.
Having now removed the blue I think I'd like to grey/ brown it slightly, create a slight uneven patina. How should I go about it - cold blue on a soft rag and work it in ? Or plum brown on a soft rag ? Love to get your ideas.
Having now removed the blue I think I'd like to grey/ brown it slightly, create a slight uneven patina. How should I go about it - cold blue on a soft rag and work it in ? Or plum brown on a soft rag ? Love to get your ideas.
I think you are on the right track. Either one, and just use a little. Maybe thin it with alcohol.
Here is an update to the holster I made last weekend for my replica Griswold & Gunnison revolver. After looking at the holster for a while I did not like the bland lines of the loop, and the color did not match well, even though I used the same dye.
So tonight I removed the brass rivets and trimmed the loop to make it more to my liking. I also added some tooling details, which tied it in with the main holster body. I then stained the loop darker, again to match better, added another finish coat, dressed the edges, and then reassembled it. Now I am very pleased with the results, and this is how it will stay.
So tonight I removed the brass rivets and trimmed the loop to make it more to my liking. I also added some tooling details, which tied it in with the main holster body. I then stained the loop darker, again to match better, added another finish coat, dressed the edges, and then reassembled it. Now I am very pleased with the results, and this is how it will stay.
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Beautiful job on the holster & vintage finish 
- Joined
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- Reaction score
- 742
Apologies to the OP, but could you found these ? Is this it ?
https://www.amazon.com/Danco-Rubber-Ring-bag-35726W/dp/B0044FWM12
https://www.amazon.com/Danco-Rubber-Ring-bag-35726W/dp/B0044FWM12
Believe a leather strap may be more HC/PC. You can also notch the retaining spring with a file to help it hold the lever better. There are a number videos out there showing how it’s done. Believe Mike Beliveau (forum member @duelist1954) has one.
Those are probably too small. I use a 5/8" ID or a 3/4" ID O-ring. The 5/8" is slightly on the tight side, but it works fine.
SDSmlf, I have seen videos about working on the spring. I notice they had mixed results, and the levers all drooped down afterward because metal had been removed from the catch. The O-ring works for me. It may not be PC, but then neither is the Jeep Wrangler I use to drive to the range to shoot it, or the digital camera I used to photograph it.
I first tried a thin strip of leather to hold the lever in place. It all but completely blocked off the view of the front sight, so I rejected that idea.
You guys are overthinking it.
They originally would’ve used a piece of leather or rawhide for the job. Looks better, much more durable than an O-ring, and is period.
They originally would’ve used a piece of leather or rawhide for the job. Looks better, much more durable than an O-ring, and is period.
^^^ Works great, except you cant see the front sight. 
Needs to be a ‘thin’ piece of leather. And as far as working the notch in the retaining spring, it help with eliminating the lever dropping with all loading levels, petty much completely eliminating it with loads under 40 grains of powder, at least with my gun.^^^ Works great, except you cant see the front sight.
As a follow-up, I got some Evoporust a while ago and soaked the cylinder in it for about an hour and a half.
I'm calling it done now, and am very happy with the gun.
I'm calling it done now, and am very happy with the gun.
