Remove cylinder and pull patches with a loop jag.Lest we forget, wedge (key) fit was important enough on originals for it to be numbered to its revolver.
Ah, but the Remington must be cleaned from the muzzle!
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Wedge won't stay in
- Thread starter Columbus
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For those that insist it needs fixed for the gun to be accurate . It doesn't but if it makes you feel better this is an easy remedy.
The wedge should fit both barrel slots squarely on either side of the arbor slot. Actually the arbor slot should be higher in the mid slot and this is where the wedge should contact not at the corner on one side or the other of the slot.
The wedge angle is on the muzzle side of the arbor slot and the square, opposite side of the wedge should mate into both barrel slots on either side of the arbor in the opposite direction.
This fit up makes a center pull on the arbor and equal pull on both barrel slots either side of the arbor. The lug, lug pins and wedge thickness fit address barrel torque and bend down of the arbor when the ball hits the forcing cone and then spools up in the rifling.
The open frame guns actually seem to use a lot of bridge technology and the solid frame guns tend toward bank vault thinking!
Drilling and tapping the end of the arbor slot and fitting a screw to make it bottom out in the well actually weakens the end of the arbor slot and some of them are plenty thin already in my experience.
well they are not match guns lol. hot water and soap remove all the fouling .I use a mop a couple of times in the barrel and that is itLest we forget, wedge (key) fit was important enough on originals for it to be numbered to its revolver.
Ah, but the Remington must be cleaned from the muzzle!
yes you have to remove the cylinder to clean it anyway
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I ordered a new wedge from Taylor's - same fit, could almost drop it through the slot. Ordered a multi-caliber loading stand from Dixie and had them send a wedge as well. The Dixie one (where the gun originally was bought) fits perfectly. Problem appears to be solved.
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Good, I hope you have solved your problem but a wedge is not difficult to make with hand tools. It does need to be fit and hardened correctly and then polished. Often times wedges are not hard enough and will deform if this is the case. The other thing about a wedge that is often over looked is the thickness which is just as important as the proper width and taper. The wedge thickness helps the lug pins resist barrel torsion from bullet twist inertia.
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The best method if have found to shorten the cylinder gap in a couple of open frame guns was to remove the barrel group, make two brass lathe centers to insert in both ends of the barrel and lathe turn the lug face between centers after removing the lug pins if they come loose in the barrel group. Take light cuts so as not to bend the lug any and remove the predetermined amount of steel to close the gap. The pins will usually need shortened a bit as well. This method insures squareness with the bore and a flat surface to mate with the frame. Now the slots in both the barrel group and arbor will probably need bit if tuning as well. Keep the barrel slots level with each other and make the arbor slot high center in the middle for the wedge contact. A bit of a flat in the high center of the arbor slot for wedge contact. This is done with spotting black or I often use a "Sharpy" for such fitting work.
