Pietta 1851 Navy

fiddlinjohn · Jun 17, 2020

Hi folks. I'm hoping to learn a lot here! I recently purchased a Pietta .36 1851 Navy and everything was good for a while. I noticed that when doing a half cock to load it, it was doing a second click between half and full. When it did that second click the cylinder wouldn't turn. Now, even if I do just the first click the cylinder will not turn. I can hold the hammer back with my finger and the cylinder will turn but not if it clicks. Any ideas? Also, the hammer will only stay back and in place if I fully cock the hammer.

Phil Coffins · Jun 17, 2020

The bolt is not working correctly, if you bought it new return it. Or a gunsmith can fix it.

fiddlinjohn · Jun 17, 2020

Phil Coffins said:
The bolt is not working correctly, if you bought it new return it. Or a gunsmith can fix it.

Thanks so much for the reply. I can't remember the exact date but it was a few months ago and purchased from Cabela's. I'm not sure of the warranty. I'll have to try to find the receipt to see what my options are. Again, I appreciate the reply!

Zonie · Jun 17, 2020

The first click on a Colt Cap & Ball revolver is the trigger snapping forward to engage the "half cock" notch of the hammer. The cylinder locking bolt started pulling out of the cylinder notch as soon as the hammer started to move and by the time this first click happens, the cylinder locking bolt should be totally clear of the cylinder, allowing it to turn.

The second click is the sound of the cylinder locking bolt snapping back against the outside of the cylinder just shy of the locking notch in the cylinder.

As the hammer is pulled back further, the third click is the sound of the cylinder locking bolt snapping down into the locking notch in the cylinder. Once this happens, the cylinder can not be rotated.

The forth click is the sound of the trigger sear entering the full cock notch and the gun is ready to fire.

If the cylinder doesn't turn freely after the hammer has been raised from the fired position to the first click, there might be something wrong with the locking bolt or with the cam that is on the hammer down inside the frame that is keeping the locking bolt from disengaging from the cylinder.
Perhaps disassembling the grip and trigger guard from the frame and applying a light coating of oil to the inner workings of the gun will fix it?
Also remember, the gun is built to be cocked in one smooth motion from the fired position to half cock and from half cock to full cock. If you stop anywhere between these positions and lower the hammer, it can cause things to not work like they should (like, locking the cylinder when it should be free to rotate).

fiddlinjohn · Jun 18, 2020

Zonie said:
The first click on a Colt Cap & Ball revolver is the trigger snapping forward to engage the "half cock" notch of the hammer. The cylinder locking bolt started pulling out of the cylinder notch as soon as the hammer started to move and by the time this first click happens, the cylinder locking bolt should be totally clear of the cylinder, allowing it to turn.

The second click is the sound of the cylinder locking bolt snapping back against the outside of the cylinder just shy of the locking notch in the cylinder.

As the hammer is pulled back further, the third click is the sound of the cylinder locking bolt snapping down into the locking notch in the cylinder. Once this happens, the cylinder can not be rotated.

The forth click is the sound of the trigger sear entering the full cock notch and the gun is ready to fire.

If the cylinder doesn't turn freely after the hammer has been raised from the fired position to the first click, there might be something wrong with the locking bolt or with the cam that is on the hammer down inside the frame that is keeping the locking bolt from disengaging from the cylinder.
Perhaps disassembling the grip and trigger guard from the frame and applying a light coating of oil to the inner workings of the gun will fix it?
Also remember, the gun is built to be cocked in one smooth motion from the fired position to half cock and from half cock to full cock. If you stop anywhere between these positions and lower the hammer, it can cause things to not work like they should (like, locking the cylinder when it should be free to rotate).

I appreciate the help! I did take it apart and refrenced the diagram. What I found was at half cock the mechanism that locks the cylinder pops back up to lock it. So, I took a look at the trigger while moving it back and found that it slips to the right a little but moves back to the proper place at full cock. I applied pressure to keep that from happening and it worked fine. I'm going to take it apart and make sure a little piece of the cap hasn't fallen in there making the trigger jog to the right.

hawkeye2 · Jun 18, 2020

When it jogged to the right it may have pushed the bolt leg off the cam on the hammer allowing the spring to pop the bolt back up locking the cylinder. If it persists look at the cam on the hammer and the left bolt leg. One or both could be worn or damaged.

fiddlinjohn · Jun 18, 2020

hawkeye2 said:
When it jogged to the right it may have pushed the bolt leg off the cam on the hammer allowing the spring to pop the bolt back up locking the cylinder. If it persists look at the cam on the hammer and the left bolt leg. One or both could be worn or damaged.

Yes, I meant hammer not trigger lol. Thank you. They shouldn't be worn since it's fairly new but I definitely won't rule that out. I'm going to take it apart and have a look at it soon.

Eterry · Jun 18, 2020

If there aren't any "spare" pieces in the action I'd suggest taking it back to Cabelas. Or at least giving them a call.

fiddlinjohn · Jun 19, 2020

hawkeye2 said:
When it jogged to the right it may have pushed the bolt leg off the cam on the hammer allowing the spring to pop the bolt back up locking the cylinder. If it persists look at the cam on the hammer and the left bolt leg. One or both could be worn or damaged.

Yes, I meant hammer not trigger lol. Thank you. They shouldn't be worn since it's fairly new but I definitely won't rule that out. I'm going to take it apart and have a look at it soon.

Eterry said:
If there aren't any "spare" pieces in the action I'd suggest taking it back to Cabelas. Or at least giving them a call.

I bought it back in March and it worked fine until recently. I'm pretty sure the store warranty is no good now. I know a gunsmith and may just have him look at it.

Eterry · Jun 19, 2020

Hopefully you can get her going, I had a '51 Navy, was lots of fun. Of course i thought you were supposed to fill the chambers with fffg.

Kansas Jake · Jun 19, 2020

I did a quick check but couldn’t find a direct answer but I think Pietta has a one year warranty.

sourdough · Jun 19, 2020

Kansas Jake said:
I did a quick check but couldn’t find a direct answer but I think Pietta has a one year warranty.

Traditions has a one-year warranty on their Pietta guns, not Pietta. Old South Firearms, LLC carries Traditions revolvers.

Regards,

Jim

dashriprock · Aug 3, 2020

Take it apart, under where the trigger and cyl. stop is , there is a spring it has two fingers one of those are broken. Replace it. I had one do the same thing.

LuVerne Schumann · Aug 4, 2020

Eterry said:
Hopefully you can get her going, I had a '51 Navy, was lots of fun. Of course i thought you were supposed to fill the chambers with fffg.

What's wrong with filling the Chambers with fffg? The compressed load is historically accurate and I had one that lived a long time shooting that load.

Eterry · Aug 4, 2020

LuVerne Schumann said:
What's wrong with filling the Chambers with fffg? The compressed load is historically accurate and I had one that lived a long time shooting that load.

The main problem was it shot a foot high at 25 yards, or maybe the sights needs regulating. I've noticed guys that shoot competition shoot lighter loads and get much tighter groups. I was a kid, wasn't really worried about groups, just how hard I could make it kick and how loud the BOOM was!

Smokey Plainsman · Aug 4, 2020

These guns really need some action work and polishing out of the box. Probably a burr or something hanging.

Schutzer · Aug 14, 2021

I have a brand new 1851 Navy Pietta and I’m having the exact same problem. You are the 3rd person I’ve found with the same problem, all on Piettas made (or purchased) in the last year. There seems to be an issue w Pietta guns this year. I too disassembled and reassembled with no change— cylinder still locks at half-cock. The cam on the hammer looks weirdly worn, which makes no sense because this is a brand-new gun (only 20 shots through it). Am trying to contact the companies (retailer and Pietta) to see what to do. Even if there is a fix, I should not need one! it’s a new gun after all.

Treestalker · Aug 14, 2021

dashriprock said:
Take it apart, under where the trigger and cyl. stop is , there is a spring it has two fingers one of those are broken. Replace it. I had one do the same thing.

I own three Colt's revolvers, 1851 model in .44. If your cylinder stop/trigger spring is broken, you can make a replacement from a fairly large safety pin. The screw will go through the hole in the pin, and the legs are cut and shaped to fit. Works well, and lasts better than a flat spring, and much cheaper. Good luck and good shooting, Geo. P.S. the cam on the hammer looks 'worn' or lopsided; it is supposed to. That allows it to drag past the finger or 'leg' of the cylinder stop. By all means get yourself a few hollow-ground or 'gunsmith' screwdrivers to fit the heads of the screws in your Colts. Also a couple of stones to smooth the action. Before long you will be happily tuning and repairing your guns and life will be good for you.

Schutzer · Aug 14, 2021

Treestalker said:
I own three Colt's revolvers, 1851 model in .44. If your cylinder stop/trigger spring is broken, you can make a replacement from a fairly large safety pin.

Hello and thank you for the comment. The problem is none of the springs are broken, they are fine. So the source of the problem must be elsewhere. Argh.

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