Help refurbishing original powder flasks please

I am not sure this is in the right spot so sorry if I got it wrong.
I just took delivery of a pair of original powder flasks.
I have soldered a split seam on one and freed up the adjustable spout on the other as well as attempted to clean up both.
The Shell Pattern says it is a James Dixons and sons sheffield. Other unknown to me.

I scrubbed the pattern with a toothbrush (not mine) and autosol to try and clean out the old polish. It was not entirely successful.
1. What can I use to get rid of the rest of the crud out?

Both have the little spout screw broken/rusted out. What size was this thread so I can try and replicate the set up?
2. One is missing the outer sleeve of the adjustable spout is there anywhere I might get another?

3. Can anyone recommend something to finish them with? I would like to protect the finish but am not entirely set on lacquer.

4. Is the outside sleeve supposed to be loose?

5. Any idea what the thread on the original spouts was? Not a lot to measure.

6. How can you close up the gap in a split seam on these things?

You decreased the value considerably. Antiques should be cleaned only very gently to preserve the patina and value. That said; they are yours and you can do as you please.

Are they brass? I have one from the mid 1800’s made of zinc.. or so I’m told.

If they’re brass or copper try catsup or Brass O for more cleaning...

IF they had brasso crud already scrubbing it off with a tooth brush and dish soap is not horrible. Once clean leave it alone. Let it tarnish. Polishing them and applying lacquer or wax is a mistake. They are old, they should look old.

The screws are unknown to anyone. You have to figure it our for your self. If you can make quality parts that are indistinguishable from the originals, go of it. IF you can not do that, leave them alone. This advice is from a collectors standpoint of course. Keep in mind a modern flask will work great and you will not further endanger your originals.

Pete G said:

You decreased the value considerably. Antiques should be cleaned only very gently to preserve the patina and value. That said; they are yours and you can do as you please.

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perhaps a little, but the polishing was already done and I would say recently. The patterns were filled with old polish turning green. This I want to remove.
The toothbrush does not seem to get it all out.

If you want to polish them try a silver polish

Stop now before you ruin them more.

SMO, Your Zinc flask may well be Tinned Iron. Try a magnet on it,, Many copper flasks where Bronze Finshed so that they did not flash in the sun. Bronzing is a dipping process. 10% Hydrosulphide of Ammonia in 1 pot,10% Dilute Sharp water( Aqua Fortis) in another. Acid first then Hyro and back to acid. Carry on till is right for you. Will go down to almost Black. Works on Brass too.. OLD DOG..

Lawrence,
Good advise not to do any more. The green is called vertigres (sp) and comes as brass ages. To remove it without polishing or otherwise damaging the patina, use WD40 and a soft toothbrush. Removing dents or re soldering seams properly is difficult and should be left to a professional. Your value has been diminished and your flasks may be worth more as parts for someone doing a restoration.

why do people think that SHINNEY IS BETTER?? just leave it alone. now you will have to wait another 100 yrs to bring them back to the condition that they were, MABY??.

Definitely don’t lacquer them. As said above ‘protecting the finish’ isn’t what you want. Also, the crud in the pattern on the left is desirable as it contrasts the pattern from the background. Id stop where you are and enjoy them. Nice flasks.

Thanks all
I do not intend to do anymore polishing.

I got them pretty cheap because one was split, one had a bit missing and someone had already polished both of them pretty hard (with Bon Ami or similar I think). I am mainly trying to get rid of the old polish filling the patterns, which is turning a lovely (read yukky) pastel green, or whatever other gunk they left ingrained in the patterns. I got most out but not all.

I had a choice with buying another reproduction flask but when these became available I thought "Why not ressurect a couple of originals, with little collector value, to usable condition?"
I paid about USD100 for the 2 originals, a reproduction Remington flask, a shot flask and a roll crimper.

I did polish one of them a little more than required. I now know that they do not require any sort of protective coating and as such they will be left to patinate. As they will be used this should happen pretty quickly.

I have an original 14g I intend to pair the shot flask and a powder flask with and an original Remington New Army the reproduction flask can go with.
Not sure what I will use the other one for yet.

Bob McBride said:

Definitely don’t lacquer them. As said above ‘protecting the finish’ isn’t what you want. Also, the crud in the pattern on the left is desirable as it contrasts the pattern from the background. Id stop where you are and enjoy them. Nice flasks.

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Thank you Bob
Yes I am trying to uncover that dark coloration from under the dried polish. I found a match worked to shift the crud without affecting the underneath.
Love your channel by the way

toot said:

why do people think that SHINNEY IS BETTER?? just leave it alone. now you will have to wait another 100 yrs to bring them back to the condition that they were, MABY??.

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Not these ones. This is the condition I received them in.

To each his own. European museums have a tendency to restore to as new condition and American museums to leave it alone, some to where it continues to deteriorate. Rather than question the restoration, try and help. He said they had been polished pretty bad when he got them, so give him a break, You ask about how to fix a side seam. My old collector friend had a brass peace flask where the seam had started to open. I was able to clean the edges where it had started to open with a jewelers saw blade, fluxed the opening, gently clamped the flask to bring the seam together and re-soldered the seam with a soldering iron. The result looked like it was never open and no change to the surface of the flask. He was delighted with the results.

Belleville said:

My old collector friend had a brass peace flask where the seam had started to open. I was able to clean the edges where it had started to open with a jewelers saw blade, fluxed the opening, gently clamped the flask to bring the seam together and re-soldered the seam with a soldering iron. The result looked like it was never open and no change to the surface of the flask. He was delighted with the results.

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Thank you Belleville
Greatly appreciated

Belleville said:

To each his own. European museums have a tendency to restore to as new condition and American museums to leave it alone, some to where it continues to deteriorate. Rather than question the restoration, try and help. He said they had been polished pretty bad when he got them, so give him a break, You ask about how to fix a side seam. My old collector friend had a brass peace flask where the seam had started to open. I was able to clean the edges where it had started to open with a jewelers saw blade, fluxed the opening, gently clamped the flask to bring the seam together and re-soldered the seam with a soldering iron. The result looked like it was never open and no change to the surface of the flask. He was delighted with the results.

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Thanks for the reminder Belleville. Sometimes we forget about national tastes. They restore (read: repaint) Rembrandts and the ceiling of Sistine Chapel was recently given a new coat, so an old flask should survive just fine.