A question of possible rust

I have found jewelers punches are great for punching these and other fine pins. Got em off ebay cheap.
Found not punching the pins all the way out makes sure they go in how and where they came out.
One of the best things I have found for between barrel and stock is Dubbing.
Was rebrowning a barrel I had used Dubbing on and had hells own time getting the wax off and brown to take.

When I’m finishing my walnut fowler stock, should I be treating the parts of the stock covered by metal any differently? For instance, under the lock and barrel channel. Thanks, dc

LawrenceA said:

I have found jewelers punches are great for punching these and other fine pins. Got em off ebay cheap.
Found not punching the pins all the way out makes sure they go in how and where they came out.
One of the best things I have found for between barrel and stock is Dubbing.
Was rebrowning a barrel I had used Dubbing on and had hells own time getting the wax off and brown to take.

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What’s this Dubbing? Thanks, dc

ppg1949 said:

When waxing the bottom of the barrel, would you use a car wax or something else?

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I use furniture wax, I have also used bees+ lard to a hard paste. I pull my barrels every few years and re wax.
I also have some brass funnels. The type the ml house sell for loading or filling flask. This makes it easier to fill the barrel.
In camp I pour from a tin cup but at home I use a cooking measuring cup.

I use water pump grease. Works great

tenngun said:

I use furniture wax, I have also used bees+ lard to a hard paste. I pull my barrels every few years and re wax.

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For the time being just to get something on the wood and barrel, I used Birchwood Casey Stock Wax. I had some and didn’t want to buy anything.

tenngun, do you remove the barrel for cleaning? If not is that why you only wax your stock every couple of years?

Daryl Crawford said:

I can make one out of a nail if you think that would work.

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A nail will work, but if you have a tight pin, it may bend on you. Use a 1/16" allen wrench. Cut down the short right angle to about 1/4" or 3/8". You for sure do not want to use a nail set as said earlier because it is tapered.
Flintlocklar

David Coulter said:

What’s this Dubbing? Thanks, dc

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Sorry meant to write Dubbin.

Thanks!

No worries
But listen to these other guys over me.
Much more experience.

I don't concern myself over a small of amount of rust under the barrel where I can't see it. I'd just be cautious about getting water in there, then oil it well when your done.

If you decide to remove the stock A nail CAN be used, but I too have seen them bend. Get a small pin set from Brownells and cherish it. They make gunsmithing tools for a reason... sometimes you can get by with Harbor Freight, but screwdrivers and punches for guns should be made for guns, not from China. My .02

I built my favorite deer rifle in 1977. It's been out in all sorts of weather including all day rain. I've pulled the barrel twice in that time. Other than light staining from surface rust there was no damage. I use Johnson's Paste Wax with a light skim of RIG on it. More damage is done to thin forestocks by pulling the barrel than is done by rust. ....... one more thing to watch out for is chipping the pin hole edges. Round the corners of the pins before re installing to keep them from catching the edges of the holes.

If you brown your barrel it's already rusted, a little more isn't going to hurt. I always coat my barrels at least the part that sits below the stock, with a thin film of grease. This way if a small amount of water does get under the stock, it'll get absorbed into the wood before it is able to touch the metal.

It would seem to me that water would be much More damaging to the wood than the barrel. As for grease and oil the oil in the grease carrier will hold the water on the metal since oil will float on water. I use minwax tung oil on the inside of barrel channel then Johnson’s paste wax on top of that and on the barrel. After cleaning or being out in the rain I turn the gun upside down and hang it by the wood stove To dry. I have a stove at home and in the wall tent I use for hunting camp and rendezvous. What can I say I’m old and like to be comfortable.

Well sir your perception is incorrect. I've been grease filming the underside of my barrels for decades and have yet to have a problem. As for water damaging wood, a drop or two of water here and there isn't going to hurt anything. I can see cause for concern here if the gun were left outside in the rain and then not dried afterwards, but who would allow that to happen. If your method works fine but unless you've tried my method and had different results, which I doubt, mine works too

I've had success using a clamp-on FL flushing fitting from Log Cabin. The machined brass clamp, fits over barrel - still mounted in stock- after pulling the lock. An o-ring seals against the barrel, around the touch hole. The attached plastic hose has a brass weight on the end & is long enough to hang into a can of water. A tight. dampened patch serves as piston to pump soapy water in/out.

I used to use a funnel and grease to protect the stock. Now, as long as I don't get carried away and pump water clear out the muzzle, the stock stays dry & safe. I love the rig. Not expensive & has paid for itself many times over.

For pushing pins, smaller than 1/16", I've used a tiny Allen wrench, clipped & mounted in a dowel. I've not found a formal punch small enough. (Product opportunity for you machinists? I'd buy one.)

Everyone has to do what they feel is in their best interest. I just have one question, what happens on a really hot day with all that grease and the oil it holds? YMMV

Found the flush kit on TOTW! Going to order one of those. Will keep the mess down and help me get a good scrub on the barrel. Thanks for that! I've seen flush kits before, but only for percussion, I never saw one of those clamp adaptors for a flintlock.

Get a couple of the spare o rings. Mine have a habit of disappearing.