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Traditions Kentucky Rifle Kit-Sights

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KentuckyTAL said:
Leatherbark said:
Still a taller set of sights might be better for you.

Bob,
If I install a taller rear sight (like this one - http://www.trackofthewolf.com/cate...?catid=14&subid=167&styleid=769&partnum=rs-la ), should I install a taller front sight?
Thanks,
Tim

I have that sight on my kentucky now. I had to bend it in the middle in order to get it to impact low enough.
000_0829.jpg
 
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Tim:

What position are you in when sighting? It is all too easy to "crawl the stock" when shooting from a bench, that is extend your head way too far forward on the stock. That in turn puts your head and eye too high.

Check to see if you can get sight alignment while in a good straight up standing position. Mount the rifle with you head fully upright, then lean your head over a bit without craning your head forward.

When fitting new sights it's best to modify the least expensive part, i.e., the sight. Tools are a light hammer, brass drift, fine flat file, fine safe edge triangular file, caliper, prick punch and vise. Measure the barrel dovetail depth and length and write the figures down. I like to thin the base first, then work on dovetail length. Hold the flat file on your bench and slide the base on it, turning 90 degrees every couple of strokes to keep the cutting action even. Measure frequently, and stop when it measures 2-3 thousandths greater than the measured depth of the slot in the barrel.

The triangular file needs a "safe edge"- one side without teeth. Dipping the file frequently in cold water, evenly grind away the teeth. Now use fine emery held flat on smooth part of bench top to polish even smoother. Use this file with the safe side against the underside of the sight body to shorten the dovetail. Work from both sides, and only on one end. Use caliper frequently to check process. When you get close, it's time to final fit for both depth and length, just a couple strokes at a time, trying to tap the sight into place.

If you go too far and the sight is loose in the dovetail, prick punch a series of marks across the center of the barrel dovetail.

Good luck. A lot of the fun of muzzleloading is tinkering. Or, as Miz Fox once said- she was not happy with me over something- "Go fondle your bullets!"

White Fox
 
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25 to get the sights center and then move out to 50 and file the front sight or adjust the rear to proper height. I like dead on at 50 and then try 75 and 100 yards.
 
Kentuckywindage said:
25 to get the sights center and then move out to 50 and file the front sight or adjust the rear to proper height. I like dead on at 50 and then try 75 and 100 yards.

Thanks for the advice Kentuckywindage.
 
KentuckyTAL said:
Actually, the more I handle the rifle, the more I think it's a "length of pull" issue.
If I put the butt plate in my bicep area, instead of the shoulder, the sights align fine.

that is where the but is supposed to go any gun with a cresent but plate is a of had gun its supposed to go in the crook of th sholder where the arm meets the shoulder.
Bernie :thumbsup:
 
KentuckyTAL said:
I'll file the sights to fit the rifle, then take it to the range-file in hand, to tweak the front sight to the correct height.

Where should I sight the rifle in at? 50 yards, 100 yards?
BTY it's a .50cal. Traditions Kentucky Rifle Kit.

I would`nt be in a hurry to get it sighted in untill you find the load your rifle likes. You want to shoot for group size first, then "dial in" the sights to put the balls on target at the range you want. I have my deer rifles sighted in to hit just a touch high at 50yds. Others will probably argue with my logic here, but thats the way I`ve always done it and it works for me. Only you know at what distance your must likely to be shooting. Just keep in mind that a .50cal round ball will do best inside 100yds. After that they`ll slow down fast and start to drop.
I`ll take a guess here and say your barrel will probably do best with somewhere between 75 and 90 grains of powder. Start with .490 balls and some precut/prelubed .018 patches. Play with the powder charge untill you find what groups best then adjust your sights.
 
That sight has a height of .440 inch above the barrel at its lowest setting. Your front sight should be at least that high so you can raise the rear to get you where you need to be.

Be aware that the sight in your link will have a larger dovetail. You will need a triangular file to open up the dovetail on your rifle to make it fit. It helps if you grind one side of the triangular file smooth so you only cut one side at a time.

Bonne Chance

Bob
I am having a similar problem, and thinking about a similar solution (new rear sight on a Traditions).
My question is, why not file the sight base down, instead of enlarging the barrel dovetail?
 
I am having a similar problem, and thinking about a similar solution (new rear sight on a Traditions).
My question is, why not file the sight base down, instead of enlarging the barrel dovetail?
Exactly. File the sight, NOT the barrel. You can't make the notch smaller if you goof.

I have 2 Traditions Kentucky Rifles from kits. There's nothing wrong with the sights. I find placing the target on the rear, with the front even with the top of the rear and just under the target, puts me pretty much dead on at 25yds. Basically using the top edge of the rear and the front blade like crosshairs, with the rear notch helping to center the front horizontally.
 
One of my previous traditions deerhunter rifles had very high front sight. I ended up filing off about 3/16 of an inch. Problem solved. You should actually shoot the rifle to verify what's going on before you change anything.
 
Above the bicep is the correct placement for that type of buttplate.

Bob

X2 The type of buttplate, is meant to sit in the bicep area. Got the same rifle and I have no problems with the sights qhen I handle the rifle in that area. Otherwise, the ``pronounced crescent`` of the buttplate poke the shoulder area and this hurt really bad when you shoot the gun.
 
One of my previous traditions deerhunter rifles had very high front sight. I ended up filing off about 3/16 of an inch. Problem solved. You should actually shoot the rifle to verify what's going on before you change anything.
I've put about 100 balls down range with it, but reading here I have learned some things.

1: I am shouldering it wrong. I have been holding it like a modern rifle, more on my chest. Reading this thread I see that I should have it more on my arm. Well that explains the sharply curved buttstock!

2: I have been packing my powder down hard with the ball. Reading the Flintlock shooting tips I learned that I should seat the ball firmly on the powder but not trying to compress the while thing.

3: Just before I joined this forum I read (here as a non member) that I am probably using far too much powder. I dialed back my loadings from 120 gr to 70 gr. If nothing else this will be more economical on powder.

I am planning a range trip tomorrow with a combination of patches and balls to see what I can do.

I would still like to change my rear sight, the notch is too wide for my tastes and aesthetically something else would be better.
 
120 grains is way overkill on the powder. I'm pretty sure that 110 grains is the max recommended load. For a patched round ball, you should start at 60 to 70 grains. Working your way up. I think you will find a sweet spot somewhere in the 70 to 90 grain area for a good hunting load.
 
120 grains is way overkill on the powder. I'm pretty sure that 110 grains is the max recommended load. For a patched round ball, you should start at 60 to 70 grains. Working your way up. I think you will find a sweet spot somewhere in the 70 to 90 grain area for a good hunting load.

For the Traditions Kentucky rifle, the max load is 100grains. It is written in the booklet included with the kit.
 
120 grains is way overkill on the powder. I'm pretty sure that 110 grains is the max recommended load. For a patched round ball, you should start at 60 to 70 grains. Working your way up. I think you will find a sweet spot somewhere in the 70 to 90 grain area for a good hunting load.

I think 150 is the max load, I was shooting 2F in that one. Again, I was poorly informed and advised.

I was shooting 2f in that gun and 3f in the .32, so I had both powders that I took to the range every time.

120 gr of 2f powder, rammed down with enough force to auto combust diesel, pan filled to over bringing with powder, and making sure to get powder directly into the vent holes.... Yep there I was trying to achieve a decent cheek weld with the butt
For the Traditions Kentucky rifle, the max load is 100grains. It is written in the booklet included with the kit.
I don't have the Kentucky, but another traditions. And really I don't recall what I was shooting, but it probably was the max load (just checked online it is 110 for mine), it was also two years ago that I shot last. Up until recently my work situation did not lend itself to having much time for hibbies
 
Muzzleloaders are a different kettle of fish than center fire guns. A learning process to be sure. I've been around black powder guns for a long time and I'm still learning.
 
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