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rock smasher with no spark, lock help, opinions
- Thread starter old ugly
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Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I'd sell that thing off for what ever I could get for it and go buy a real lock that works.
old ugly
40 Cal.
no i'd cut it up before i'd sell something unusable to someone. I can't do that to someone.
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As long as you are up front with people about the lock having problems, I don't see a problem with selling it. Someone may be looking for parts for that particular lock and could make use of yours.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Yep, that thing is worth some good money to somebody who has one and needs parts.
Call Log Cabin and describe your problem to them, they offer gun smith services. They maybe be able to help, all you will lose is the price of a phone call and the worst is postage mailing it to them.
old ugly
40 Cal.
I was thinking that too but its so small and I'm not steady enough any more.
also I thought maybe plug the hole with steal pin then redrill.
I have a tow frizzen coming we will see what happens after it gets here.
IF you can not find the correct frizzen you are sunk as to making a decent flintlocks out of it. Well, unless you can make one from scratch.
Consider making a percussion conversion lock as done long ago. You will need a hammer. Figure out the throw you need and the orientation of the square on the tumbler. Track's catalog is very helpful for this type of thing.
IT could be that something is available for the percussion version of that lock.
Years ago I did this on a TC flintlock, the original one that did not work well. As a caplock it was good. The hammer was available at the time. Adding a drum to the flint breech plug was easy.
Consider making a percussion conversion lock as done long ago. You will need a hammer. Figure out the throw you need and the orientation of the square on the tumbler. Track's catalog is very helpful for this type of thing.
IT could be that something is available for the percussion version of that lock.
Years ago I did this on a TC flintlock, the original one that did not work well. As a caplock it was good. The hammer was available at the time. Adding a drum to the flint breech plug was easy.
old ugly
40 Cal.
Scotia4570
That’s not a bad idea if I can’t make it work as a flintlock.
That would be strange owning a cap gun, over 30 years since I had one.
I gotta remember that one.
That’s not a bad idea if I can’t make it work as a flintlock.
That would be strange owning a cap gun, over 30 years since I had one.
I gotta remember that one.
old ugly
40 Cal.
I I got the new frizzen from TOW I have it fitted to the lock. a little bit of modifying but it strikes good when the flint hits it. I loosend up the frizzen spring and had to change the cam ramp a tiny bit seems all good.
now I'm gonna heat treat it.
you say quench the frizzen in light oil. such as cooking oil or motor oil? what is proper?
thanks
ou
tom
Last edited:
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old ugly
40 Cal.
cool.
now its in the oven at 375
thanks
ou
tom
now its in the oven at 375
thanks
ou
tom
old ugly
40 Cal.
It sparks! Best ever!
I had to make a small spacer to shim the frizzen pivot. now onto the mainspring issue then a bunch of clean up on it to make it nice.
One more question, even though I know I have maxed out my question quota.
Do you think it safe to weld up the name on the lock plate. I want to file it off but it’s too deep, looks like maybe part of the casting?
Thank all for your help, so happy that it will actually work now
Ou
Tom
I had to make a small spacer to shim the frizzen pivot. now onto the mainspring issue then a bunch of clean up on it to make it nice.
One more question, even though I know I have maxed out my question quota.
Do you think it safe to weld up the name on the lock plate. I want to file it off but it’s too deep, looks like maybe part of the casting?
Thank all for your help, so happy that it will actually work now
Ou
Tom
Attachments
Welding on any part can and usually does cause it to distort or, warp. 
Just something to keep in mind.
Just something to keep in mind.
old ugly
40 Cal.
Welding on any part can and usually does cause it to distort or, warp.
Just something to keep in mind.
are lock plates usually hard steel or soft/malleable
thanks
ou
tom
Could be soft or have a mild case hardening. You might try using a punch to tap around the name to close the name up. You may then be able to file that part smooth enough so the name will be nearly gone.
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As Jim said, welding could, and most likely will warp the plate. To me if you are determined to rid the name: I would try Grenadiers punch suggestion, but if it is surface hardened the metal may not compress. In that case you may have to grind off the surface hardening, in order to punch in the metal. My second hint will make some members cringe, but it would work for a result. Go ahead and epoxy in the name, then grind/polish smooth. Blue or brown the lock to your preference, then touch up the letters with paint, yes good old paint. No one will know if you do it right!
Flintlocklar
Pete G
76 Cal.
Keep the name. It adds to the lock's uniqueness.
