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Should I send Renegade back?

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Received my Auction Arms T/C Renegade today. The previous owner listed it as being in excellent condition but I think the lock/hammer assembly is shot.

It only goes into both half-trigger and full trigger once in a while. My half trigger shows the bottom of the hammer barely above the nipple. Usually when I cock the hammer back slowly, it only goes into full cock... skips right over half-cock.

Also, when I test fire it, most #11 caps are deformed but they never go bang. I tried different nipples. There seems to be a little slop in the hammer when it lies on the nipple. It rides up & down a little... not much.. maybe an 1/8".

I paid $150 for it. It's drilled & tapped with mount & rings and a cheap Tasco scope on it. I really don't know if I should take a 2-way shipping, handling & insurance loss ($21 + $21) by returning it... or is it expensive to fix??? Thanks in advance!
 
Trip. Pull the lock and send it back to T/C and they likely will fix it for nothing and you might get it back in less than 10 days.
I sent an older T/C stock back that was cracked near the butt plate and they sent me a new stock with new furniture!
I sent it out on a Monday morning and the new stock came on Friday of that week!
 
Pull the lock and inspected check the 2 screws that hold on the plate the covers the spring. If they are loosen put on some lock tite and tighten. If not do what Maxi said. For a 150.00 you still didn't go wrong.
 
TC is very good about taking care of anything that's broken or worn but sounds like you probably have a little rust in your lock so remove it , clean and oil it and it'll probably be OK.
 
Triple I would send the lock back to t/c explaining the problem you are having with it.
I have had alot of dealing with t/c when it comes to replacing worn out parts : They will do the right thing either fix or replace the part:They also pay the return shipping ::
 
Thanks for the help! I'll tear into the lock this weekend.. need to examine the trigger too cuz' that thing is either split-hair sensitive or the set trigger won't click in. There's no give in it. If I just squeeze the front trigger, there's a mile of play and a 1/2 ton of pound-pressure needed to get it to fire. Outside of that - I love the rifle. I ain't sendin' it back.. no way Jose! I'll just give the former owner a poor review at Auction[url] Arms.com[/url]. Even if I had to pump $100 into the gun, it's still a good deal considerin' what I paid for it. :haha: :haha: :haha:
 
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UPDATE

One week ago, I sent T/C by mail the double trigger assembly, hammer & lock assembly. Today I received brand new a hammer, lock assembly & double trigger assembly. The old hammer round metal bottom cavity was chewed & deformed from the old owner dry-firing it like a jackazz, the sear had a bare metal groove dug into it -- plus the front trigger had excessive 3/4" of creep while the rear trigger wouldn't adjust any stiffer than 1-1/2 lbs.

This is why I've chosen to buy Thompson Center MLs recently (Omega-Renegade) and will continue to do so in the future. They have the best warranty service hands-down & I'd like to single-out troubleshooting gunsmith "Jack" at T/C Service Dept for taking prompt action & rewarding free parts to their valued customers who have occasional worn parts questions & replacement needs.

Thank You Again T/C
Joe
 
Good to hear. I can't imagine how abused that poor Renegade must have been to be that damaged. I've probably put better than 6,000 rounds through mine over the past 20 years and it is still crisp, though the parts are showing the slightest of wear. Might need a new trigger set-sear in 40 or 50 more years at this rate.
 
There was a comment made here about "he old hammer round metal bottom cavity was chewed & deformed from the old owner dry-firing it like a jackazz, the sear had a bare metal groove dug into it". I'm wondering if I'm doing my T/C Renegade lock any damage by dry-firing it? I do this by leaving the hammer either fully down or at half cock, then cocking the set (rear) trigger and then pulling the front trigger to simulate a shot. I can't see how this should cause damage, but I'm sure more knowledgeable folks here will be able to confirm or deny.
 
IMO, when dry firing a rifle (or pistol) with a double set trigger, the hammer should be down on the nipple.
In this position, dry firing is really only working the trigger release plate and the triggers "sear" which releases it.
A quality double set trigger should withstand thousands of dry fires.

If the hammer is in the "half cock" position, the nose of the sear in engaged into a notch in the tumbler. Every time the set trigger is dry fired, the triggers release plate gives a whack to the sear arm and that impact is transfered to the nose of the sear (which I already noted is firmly engaged in the tumbler).
The nose of the sear is very hard so it is also very brittle. There is a good possibility that repeated dry firings with the sear engaged in the half cock notch will break the nose off of the sear.

Bottom line? Leave the hammer down and dry fire the set triggers as much as you want to. No Problem.
 
Triple se 7en: Glad to hear all came out well! What did You do about the nerd who sold it to You? Did You contact him or just post a bad review? How is the stock and bore? I think Your going to like the Renegade.I've had mine for a few years and do dry fire the set triggers,on inspection have found no excessive wear. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Gordy

The stock & bore are in very good condition. I have yet to give the prior owner any type of pro/con review over at the auction site. After what transpired with this Renegade, I haven't returned to that website & I seriously doubt if I will ever again.

I do know for certain that I will never buy another used gun via the internet again. I was fortunate the Renegade was manufactured with a transferable lifetime warranty. In the future, I will personally inspect any used rifles that interest me... will never chance a "blind one" again. Now sometime next week, I'm going to order me a new 58 cal barrel for it. I still haven't decided if I want to buy a 1-70" twist with a 32" barrel or a 26" barrel/1-48" twister from Fox Ridge for that Renegade.
 
T/C has without a doubt the BEST customer service in the industry.
I have 4 T/C caplocks and one in-line. IN-LINE! Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh, noooooooooooooo.
Well I do, so there! ::
Your gonna get a .58 for her huh?You know what that means?
You gotta give us all a range report!
I have a .58 barrel for mine, it's a boolit shooter and witt the huge Hornady Great Plains boolit over 100 grains of 2fg it kills on BOTH ends.
I'd imagine the .58 bore with either ball or boolit would take about anything on this side of the planet.
 
FYI, I recently bought a GM .58cal 1:70" round ball flint barrel to drop in a TC Hawken stock, and unless it's just the caliber itself, this .58cal barrel may be the most accurate ML barrel I've ever owned
 
Roundball

Is yours from Track Of The Wolf (1-70" -- 32" barrel)?? My only debate on which one to get rests on how well & how far that .570 roundball flies. I'd like it to be 100 yards otherwise I'll opt for the Minis or Ballets in the 1-48" twist from[url] Fox-Ridge.com[/url]. You said yours is a sharpshooter. How far have you been flinging lead with it?

Maxi

Nuttin' rong' with ownin' a stinkin' inliner.... works well when cumpinys ovur to hunt & thay need sumthin' tur shoot....lol
 
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It's a Green Mountain barrel...1:70" X 1" X 32" (plus the breech plug makes it 33")...many places sell GM barrels...I bought mine through Cain's Outdoor, West Va;

80grns, 90grns, and 100grns of Goex FFg all produced the same accuracy so I settled on a strong Deer hunting load of 100grns, zeroed at 50 yards, then tested it at 100yds actual and it only has a 3" drop at 100 yards.

Where I hunt 99% of my shots are in the 40-60 yard range so I put it dead on at 50...would rather be able to precisely aim through a tiny opening of limbs than have to guess if I needed to hold high or low in tight conditions.
If I get the rare 100yd shot, I'll know to just hold a couple inches higher than normal.

But As you know, if you expect your average shot to be on the longer side, you could zero it 1"-1.5" high at 50yds and only be 1"-1.5" low at 100 yards...either way the 100grn load is fairly flat shooting, and that 279grn / .58cal ball will do the job at long distances when it gets there
 
While more thaa needed for deer the .58's with RB worked very well indeed, on Moose. The results would be the same on Elk. The guys using the .58's are using a bit more powder than 100gr., with 130 to 140 being normal for moose. The pressures are still quite low. There's a big difference between .54 and .58 in pressure with those loads.
: Lyman lists 7,100LUP with 140gr. 2F G-O and only 5,350LUP with 140gr. C&H 2F, both with round ball. The .575213OS at 460gr. raises that up to 9,900LUP with G-O 2F and 7,200 with C&H2F.
Daryl
 
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