• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Refinishing an old CVA

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ringel05

45 Cal.
Joined
May 9, 2013
Messages
754
Reaction score
3
I have a CVA 12 gage double barrel muzzleloading shotgun, considering removing the bluing on all the metal parts, just use white vinegar. In doing that should I plug the barrels and nipples or not worry about it? Of course I do have to find something long enough to submerge the barrel in.
Was also considering filing off the CVA stamp in between the barrels and filing off the ducks stamped on the lock plates.
 
I read somewhere, I don't remember, an article saying you could use paper towels to do that. Soak the towels in vinegar and wrap the item. Let it sit a few hours and check to see the progress. If it works, at least you won't have to submerge the barrels. Or maybe just use naval jelly. :hmm:
 
I just went through the process of removing bluing and refinishing with a browning process. But I'm having a senior moment. I think I tried the naval jelly, then just mostly used the scotch-brite pads. Maybe it was a combination. Anyway, I got the bluing off, and the browning job turned out great.
 
..

I am just wondering why do you want to remove the CVA ? ?

..
 
Donny said:
..

I am just wondering why do you want to remove the CVA ? ?

..
On the rib is stamped "Connecticut Vally Arms, Inc, Black Powder Only, 12 Cal, SHOTGUN" and what looks like a serial number (which I'll leave).
While the shotgun is not 100% HC removing the bluing, above listed stamp and the farby decorative stamping on the rest of the metal parts will at least make it look closer to HC.
Haven't decided yet if I want to refinish the polyurethaned stock.
The locks are pretty cheaply made, not sure if I can find better quality locks for it, we'll see.
 
Took it apart, the lock is..... cheap to use the best description, the trigger mechanism..... pretty much the same so I'm thinking I'll have to rebuild at least the trigger setup.

DSC_0305.JPG
 
ToW recommended (if I want good locks) I custom cut my own plates then fit L&R guts from a 100 right and 200 left. I have no idea what steel to use or where to get it.
 
Those olde locks work just fine. It's a capper not a flint lock so all they have to do is strike the nipple.
The deal is they didn't spend any time "finishing" the lock parts,, they just assembled them.
If you spend a little time polishing the sides and contact areas of each part including the lock plate with a fine stone, then keep them freshly lubed they can be surprisingly fast for a "cheap" lock.
Another key thing is to square the inside of the hammer cup with the nipple face with a small grinding stone from a Dremel.
 
necchi said:
Those olde locks work just fine. It's a capper not a flint lock so all they have to do is strike the nipple.
The deal is they didn't spend any time "finishing" the lock parts,, they just assembled them.
If you spend a little time polishing the sides and contact areas of each part including the lock plate with a fine stone, then keep them freshly lubed they can be surprisingly fast for a "cheap" lock.
Another key thing is to square the inside of the hammer cup with the nipple face with a small grinding stone from a Dremel.
Okay, thanks. The real reason is the cheesy "engraving" on the lock plate and hammer, I can file it off the lock plate no problem but it's deep on the hammers. Maybe just replace the hammers if I can find something close? :idunno:
 
Black Hand said:
Use Naval Jelly to remove the bluing. Only takes a few minutes...
----------------------------------------------

X2--- also makes a nice flat finish if you want an in the white finish look.
 
Thanks guys, looks like I will go ahead and use naval jelly
(Just don't wash for a week and I'll have all the navel jelly I want......) :grin:
 
Here's the hammers, not sure you can see the cheesy "engraving" or not. That's why I want to replace them.

DSC_0308.JPG


DSC_0306.JPG


And here's the trigger group:

DSC_0309.JPG


Notice the large square holes instead of small holes for the wire spring.
Also notice it's an open ferrule as opposed to a solid pin holding the triggers in place.
 
My brother has one of those CVA shotguns. He has hunted with it, shot clay birds and who knows what else. He even uses it in a competition at a rendezvous he attends. He built it from a kit probably thirty-five years ago. The times we have gone hunting with it, he has never had a misfire or missed his bird. I think he is pretty pleased with the shotgun. It does perform.

I would probably assemble the shotgun and give it a go before changing anything. :hmm:
 
DoubleDeuce 1 said:
My brother has one of those CVA shotguns. He has hunted with it, shot clay birds and who knows what else. He even uses it in a competition at a rendezvous he attends. He built it from a kit probably thirty-five years ago. The times we have gone hunting with it, he has never had a misfire or missed his bird. I think he is pretty pleased with the shotgun. It does perform.

I would probably assemble the shotgun and give it a go before changing anything. :hmm:
Thanks but I've already taken it apart and started filing off the engraving (I hate that engraving on it). I've also decided to strip the furniture sand it down and refinish it with Tru oil. Might even get some thin sheet metal and make a butt plate for it.
 
Ringel05 said:
already taken it apart and started filing off the engraving (I hate that engraving on it).
To each his own, the main thing is that your pleased with your gun.
But do you think it will look like "not a CVA" once the engraving is gone and the wood has a different color?
 
necchi said:
Ringel05 said:
already taken it apart and started filing off the engraving (I hate that engraving on it).
To each his own, the main thing is that your pleased with your gun.
But do you think it will look like "not a CVA" once the engraving is gone and the wood has a different color?
It will look not as much like a CVA.........
In the mean time I'm still looking for a double barrel 1870s Colt blackpowder cartridge shotgun and a 1860 Sharps Carbine conversion. The CVA will do for now.
 
It's based on an original so it fits right in. Perfectly serviceable double.

Oh, while the jelly makes quick work of the bluing, it's a nasty mess to clean up when a gallon of red apple cider vinegar will do the same job, just as fast, with less clean up and cheaper too. Don't bother plugging the barrels either.
 
I also would leave it alone and enjoy it. I had one traded it off - sure wish I had it back.

Larry
 
Back
Top