New Pietta Remington 1858

OK,
New Pietta Remington 1858 from Cabelas.
Came with the Pistol starter kit.
I have the seperate Cylindar loader.
Making a loading stand as required by my Range.

Question is what are the things not covered in the manual I need to know?
I shoot usually before work or during lunch so I need a simple and quick field cleaning routine to get me by till I get home in the evening to do a full cleaning (need to know some methods for that too). Gun will be in the hot car for 5-10 hours before cleaning.
When I get home, I have a slop sink by my work area.
I already have some water/amonia in my goodie bag I use for my corrosive ammo clean up at the range.
thx

Melnic said:

I already have some water/amonia in my goodie bag I use for my corrosive ammo clean up at the range.
thx

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"corrosive"? Black powder is water soluble. No need for ammonia. :shocked2: Just use water.

If you don't have access to water or want a little more for peace of mind. Mix up a batch of this recipe an old timer gave me. Cleans well until you can get to soap & water.

Black Powder Solvent/Cleaner

1 part Murphy’s Oil Soap
2 parts rubbing alcohol
2 parts peroxide

Keep the ammonia away from any brass part that might be a high stressed part.
Ammonia can cause micro-cracks that can lead to the parts failure.

As for peroxide, I'm not sold on it. It is basically water with some free oxygen molecules in it. Oxygen and steel = rust.

If the gun were mine and I couldn't clean it right away my goal would be to keep any humidity in the air away from the fouling and metal.

To do that, I would spray a medium heavy coating of Birchwood Casey Barricade on all of the fouling.

Doing this will make the gun harder to clean later on and some soap will be needed but in the meantime no rust will form on the steel parts.

Buy a bottle of Ballistol and mix it 1 part Ballistol to 10 parts water. Put it in a spray bottle and after shooting, spray your pistol down thoroughly with the mixture. It will wash off most of the fouling and soften the rest while it is sitting in your car. Place it in a plastic bag and when you get home, disassemble it and spray it down again and it is ready to wipe clean. It is the best revolver cleaner you can get. The Ballistol will prevent any rust while it is sitting in your car waiting for the final cleaning.

Hi,
For a quick clean on a revolver, I just remove the cylinder.
Then I run hot water through the barrel and cylinder, I then run jag through both cylinder and barrel.
I also run hot water through the frame, careful not to put water on the grips.
Afterwards I spray oil on all metal parts.
It only takes a few minutes and you are on your way.
Fred

Is it a brass framed or steel framed revolver? Either way, when I hit the range and can't clean my guns right away. Remove the cylinder and take it to the nearest restroom. Have with you a 45 cal brush, mop and short cleaning rod.. Run it under hot water and scrub the cylinders good then dry them and spray with something like Remoil. Same procedure with the barrel and frame. Just half cock the hammer while pointed in a safe direction and spray some oil into the lockwork. Do a detail strip when you have time but as long as most of the gunk is removed and there is a light coat of oil, you're good. This is exactly what I do when there isn't time to detail strip the revolvers. Hope that helped.
-Capnballhunter

As a footnote, I wish I could quick clean my long guns the same way
Fred

Thx for the suggestions. Gonna look them over.
I have the Steel frame one.
I like the idea wiping what I can and Jag in the Bore, Spray it down, then throwing into a baggie till later.

I have never had a problem using an old fashioned non-water based bore cleaner on a few patches and to wipe down the parts until thorough cleaning. The stuff I use coats everything with an oily coating and neutralizes the fouling for the time needed to get home and clean. Yes, even in a hot car trunk. The stuff I use, is WW2/Korean War era US surplus bore cleaner. I have a few cases of the stuff, although I understand it is now considered a hazardous material.

Old Ford said:

Hi,
For a quick clean on a revolver, I just remove the cylinder.
Then I run hot water through the barrel and cylinder, I then run jag through both cylinder and barrel.
I also run hot water through the frame, careful not to put water on the grips.
Afterwards I spray oil on all metal parts.
It only takes a few minutes and you are on your way.
Fred

Click to expand...

+1 Water is the best solvent for black powder. If you don't want to put your frame under running water you can put some water in a spray bottle. Putting the cylinder in running water is the fastest way to clean it. Running water alone will remove 90% of the fouling. I like using a nylon GI cleaning to clean the chambers. You can use the small brush in the the chambers then use it with a patch to clean the bottom of the chambers. You can use some small plastic tubing to blow out water from around the nipples as well as blowing out the water from inside the nipples.

I had read about Ballistol working well and tried it. It works very well, though I didn't water it down.

I buy Ballistol in the pour can and mix it 75 water to 25 Ballistol in a spray bottle. Works like a charm, one can last a long time. Use it on both my 58s and longrifles.