Just got my early german wheellock from TRS and the lock has about 2 dozon parts I don't have a clue where to start. I don't get the print with it for some reason. I'm sure it will help I just need to know what size holes to drill and tap and to put together. Has anyone done one of these.
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TRS early german Wheellock
- Thread starter flytrout
- Start date
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sydney1942
Pilgrim
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- Jul 24, 2007
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Hi--if you do a web search for" how to build your own
Wheelock " there is a full set of drawings
and a set of directions--I have built one
using this and I am working on another
Let me know if I can be of some help
Sydney
Wheelock " there is a full set of drawings
and a set of directions--I have built one
using this and I am working on another
Let me know if I can be of some help
Sydney
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,009
- Reaction score
- 9,944
Hi,
I have the same part set but have not built it up yet. That project is on a back burner for a while. TRS usually does not supply instructions so you need to know a little bit about how wheellocks work inside. I can help you with the project because I understand how the early German lock is constructed and operates. In my case, I intend to modify it and upgrade the quality of the decoration befitting a finer lock made in Munich around 1590. One of your challenges will be to heat treat the massive mainspring properly. I hope you have some experience with lock making, metal working, and heat treating. The first task is to grind off all of the flashing and file finish each part to fit. I suggest you do that before drilling any holes. Be careful, because some of the detail in some parts is actualy hidden within the flashing, so don't just whack away at it with a grinder. Some parts like the chain links are best made from scratch using the cast parts as models. Also, the fit of the wheel into the pan is a bit sloppy and likely will allow powder fouling to jam the wheel. On my lock, I will weld new steel into the pan slot, finish and harden the wheel, and then use it to cut into the bottom of the pan for a precise fit. The screws that TRS supplied are either 8-32 or 10-32 with the exception of the top jaw screw. I'll probably use the screws as guides but make my own that are more historically correct. Also, do not trust the markings for holes on parts and the lockplate. You have to check their accurate placement with the finished parts before drilling. This is very hard to do unless you understand the mechanism. One way to simplify your tasks is to ignore the safety mechanism initially. Just build up the lock without it, then add it later after you have everything else fitted and working properly. Good luck, you bit off a big chunk to chew when buying that lock. The plans you will find on the internet are taken from Lauber's book on making a wheellock. They will help a little but your lock is not the same as the mid 17th century lock Lauber recreates.
dave
I have the same part set but have not built it up yet. That project is on a back burner for a while. TRS usually does not supply instructions so you need to know a little bit about how wheellocks work inside. I can help you with the project because I understand how the early German lock is constructed and operates. In my case, I intend to modify it and upgrade the quality of the decoration befitting a finer lock made in Munich around 1590. One of your challenges will be to heat treat the massive mainspring properly. I hope you have some experience with lock making, metal working, and heat treating. The first task is to grind off all of the flashing and file finish each part to fit. I suggest you do that before drilling any holes. Be careful, because some of the detail in some parts is actualy hidden within the flashing, so don't just whack away at it with a grinder. Some parts like the chain links are best made from scratch using the cast parts as models. Also, the fit of the wheel into the pan is a bit sloppy and likely will allow powder fouling to jam the wheel. On my lock, I will weld new steel into the pan slot, finish and harden the wheel, and then use it to cut into the bottom of the pan for a precise fit. The screws that TRS supplied are either 8-32 or 10-32 with the exception of the top jaw screw. I'll probably use the screws as guides but make my own that are more historically correct. Also, do not trust the markings for holes on parts and the lockplate. You have to check their accurate placement with the finished parts before drilling. This is very hard to do unless you understand the mechanism. One way to simplify your tasks is to ignore the safety mechanism initially. Just build up the lock without it, then add it later after you have everything else fitted and working properly. Good luck, you bit off a big chunk to chew when buying that lock. The plans you will find on the internet are taken from Lauber's book on making a wheellock. They will help a little but your lock is not the same as the mid 17th century lock Lauber recreates.
dave
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,009
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- 9,944
Hi,
That is not the early lock that I was expecting but it is certainly closer to the Lauber lock. Go online and download the plans that others suggested and you should be fine. I thought you were building lock series 786. Regardless, I know that mechanism as well and can help.
dave
That is not the early lock that I was expecting but it is certainly closer to the Lauber lock. Go online and download the plans that others suggested and you should be fine. I thought you were building lock series 786. Regardless, I know that mechanism as well and can help.
dave
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,009
- Reaction score
- 9,944
Hi,
This may help:
Your parts starting at top left and reading to the right by rows -
1. pan cover
2. pan cover spring
3. wheel retaining lug
4. rocker arm for pan cover
5. main bridle
6. primary sear
7. secondary sear
8. dog
9. pan
10. bottom jaw for dog
11. bridle between screws holding dog and dog spring on lockplate
12. wheel
13. mainspring
14. chain links
15. lockplate
Missing in your photo are the spindle upon which the wheel rotates and the chain is attached, and the small leaf spring that fits between the lockplate and the primary sear, and has a toe that pushes down on the secondary sear.
The primary sear, which is historically correct, has a tip that fits through the plate and engages a hole on the back side of the wheel. That holds the wheel in place after winding. On Lauber's lock, that tip is gone. Instead, he has the arm of the sear pushing against a ball bearing that fits in a hole through the plate and engages a hole or depression on the wheel. His design is an improvement but I do not believe it is historically correct.
Hope this helps.
dave
This may help:
Your parts starting at top left and reading to the right by rows -
1. pan cover
2. pan cover spring
3. wheel retaining lug
4. rocker arm for pan cover
5. main bridle
6. primary sear
7. secondary sear
8. dog
9. pan
10. bottom jaw for dog
11. bridle between screws holding dog and dog spring on lockplate
12. wheel
13. mainspring
14. chain links
15. lockplate
Missing in your photo are the spindle upon which the wheel rotates and the chain is attached, and the small leaf spring that fits between the lockplate and the primary sear, and has a toe that pushes down on the secondary sear.
The primary sear, which is historically correct, has a tip that fits through the plate and engages a hole on the back side of the wheel. That holds the wheel in place after winding. On Lauber's lock, that tip is gone. Instead, he has the arm of the sear pushing against a ball bearing that fits in a hole through the plate and engages a hole or depression on the wheel. His design is an improvement but I do not believe it is historically correct.
Hope this helps.
dave
sydney1942
Pilgrim
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2007
- Messages
- 3
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- 0
Hi--if you have trouble making the chain--check out roller chain # 25--it works just fine and is
less trouble
Sydney
less trouble
Sydney
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2010
- Messages
- 1,808
- Reaction score
- 6
flytrout said:
Go buy a lottery ticket.. right now!
Va.Manuf.06
58 Cal.
Supercracker said:
Too many complaints about TRS' "slowness" of delivery. My experiences have been the opposite, like flytrout's, a week to one month depending on what was in stock. One order did take two months but considering the quality of the parts and the number of items they offer, that's not bad either.
I'm also in the planing of building a Nock Volley gun(7 barrel). I will be ordering from TRS all parts but the Barrels. I called and made sure the parts are ready to ship. I order a barrel from McGowen barrels and they said it would be 4 to 6 weeks. That was 6 and 1/2 mounths ago.
Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2011
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- 1,406
You must be a glutton for punishment. 7 barrels with a 40 grain charge is 280 grains of FFg pushing 1365 grains of lead.
