clark flintlock lock

I am wondering if anyone has one of his guns and is using his lock. and if it works ok for you?
it will spark maybe 10 times all the time smashing the flint, then I may get another 10 hamerfalls with spark if I fiddle with it, by that time the flint is destroyed.
my gun shoots deadly accurate but the lock is grief. before I send the lock back I am wondering if I should give up on it and buy a Durs Egg lock (which by looking in the Track catalogue) is the same shape lock plate, hammer and frizen.
I have been trying so many things to save this lock over that last 4 years I am ready to give up on it.
thanks
for
any help
ou

Did you buy it from Clark or a commercial seller? If so, contact them and ask for advice. You may be using the wrong size flint or putting it into the cock jaws incorrectly. But, if you are doing your part correctly and it still is not working properly, it is time to contact the seller. Four years is a long time to wait before contacting the seller so he may or may not repair or exchange the lock but it never hurts to ask. If you don't ask, you won't know. If the seller cannot or will not correct the problem, then may be the time to contact The Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio. They have a gunsmith that works with or for them that specializes in repairing and tuning locks. He will be cheaper than replacing the lock. He's not cheap but he is good and he will turn your sows ear into a silk purse.
www.logcabinshop.com (330) 948-1082

I can only shoot once or twice a year, and so each time out, after tinkering with it, I think it will be ok, but no. it will chew up 2 flints and not spark 1/2 the time on a 25 shot trail.
it is a long time to wait I know and don't expect that it would be able to be a warranty issue.
I have contacted mr clark who says to send it back but with out knowing what he is going to charge, I am reluctant to do that. and am thinking that maybe replacing it with the L R Durs Egg lock may be a better way to go?
I have been in the flintlock gig for about 30 years and can usually remedy a problem like this but not this time.

".....but with out knowing what he is going to charge...."

Just ask him if there will be charges and if so, how much. That way, you can make an informed decision.

It sounds like the problems I had with my pedroseli. I lengthened the frizen spring and now have no problem! :idunno:

Surely John would tell you what the cost for repairs would be once he has had a look at the lock.

thanks all
I just mailed it. guns no good without a good working lock.

ou

There are several things that affect the working of a flint lock. Length and position of the flint can be critical, aside from the mechanics of the lock itself. Sending it to the maker is probably a good idea, if any one can judge the workings of it, it'll be the maker. Just stay with it, flint locks can be a bit persnickity till you get them set up properly, then they're as dependable as anything out there!

Bingo. Not enuf info given to conclude anything or to help.

I was just wondering if any one else was using a clark lock, and what sort of success they were having.

I had one, it was junk. I concluded I would be ahead just to get an L&R Durs Egg, and use that. The Clark lock had the hole for the tumbler shank drilled at such an angle through the lockplate that the shoulder on the cock very nearly missed the lockplate. Naturally, the tumbler misalinment made for a hell of a bind when I cocked it---when I got it, the screws were all very loose on the bridle, when I tightened them up I couldn't cock the lock, the tumbler was so far out of square to the plate. There's no easy fix for this, short of welding up the tumbler hole in the lockplate and redrilling. I sold the lock on eBay and bought the L&R Durs Egg, and never looked back.

Rod

thank you very much for telling me that. I have fought with mine way to long.
I sent it back to Mr. Clark and we will see how much he wants to make it work. I wish I had waited a bit longer before I sent it.

how close did the Durs Egg fit the opening that the Clark came out of?

Very closely. As I recall, it almost dropped in, I just had to remove a very little wood in the mortice to make it work. The lockplate on the L&R is very slightly larger, so there won't be any gaps in the inletting.

Rod

awsum thanks
ou

well, I sent the lock to mr Clark, he said the frizzen was crack and replaced the frizzen, charged me $25.oo (seems cheep enough) BUT, the frizzen was not cracked when I sent it, the new frizzen does not even fit the pan, and it still has minimal spark and breaks flints. so including postage both ways and the repair it cost $40.00 and is no better, probably worse.
Crappy locks don't buy one.
L&R Durs Egg is the next move.

Thanks for posting this, I was considering a Clark for a future build.

Given the premium price for the lock I would have suspected it was something "special".

Good to get some first hand experience plus an indication of the service from the builder.

What Mr. Clark is this?
Send his full name and/or website.

What ever you do, if Clark can't fix it, find a gunsmith who can fix it. Life is too short to live with a poor lock.All my L&R's needed a gunsmith to get them right. My Chambers did not.

Back when I first got into blackpowder arms in the mid 70's, John Clark rifles were top drawer builds here in Southern Ontario.. He has to be well over 70 now, his website shows some of his best work.


http://clarkindustries.on.ca/

If you want me to take a whack at it I will for just the experience, no cost to you but postage one way. I usually can fix most things gun related.
I think the cock probably needs to be heated and repositioned in relation to frizzen face.
If I break it you will only be out postage. Mike D.