Fitting an L&R replacement lock into a T/C

Putting together a T/C Hawken from parts/pieces... brand new stock and all brass, Green Mountain .50 cal 'direct replacement' barrel.
Considering locks, I've been kind of hesitant to go with anything other than a T/C lock- due to appearances- but the more I think about it, the more I think an L&R replacement lock would look good, certainly work fine.
I understand it's not a direct drop-in, however- anyone have any experience with putting one of these in a T/C Hawken stock? Much inletting internally required?
Thanks for any advice/guidance.
Wes

I have done both T/C and Lyman RPL's from L&R.

The lock pretty much fits the "visible" mortise in panel (plate itself is nearly identical) - I mean I think all it took was a little sand paper to get a super fit there.

What IS different is the inletting you need to do for all the guts to fit.

The mainspring is way different and the so is the sear spring - that's what needs to be inlet inside .

On a positive note, unless you really botch it and bore through to the other side, it's all hidden.

There is instructions with the lock and the inlet changes/additions can be done fairly easily with a drill and an x-acto knife. If you are patient and careful it's not a "huge" job.

You didn't specify flint or percussion but the guts are the same.

Here's a pic of the reverse side of both locks (cap) and I circled the two main points of difference.

I would go for the L&R for no other reason then they are still producing locks and parts "right now" - T/C has got out of the sidelock business.

And if L&R goes bye-bye it will probably be because there are NO muzzle loaders left.

Also, you could argue that the mainspring is far superior to the coil used by T/C and Lyman.

Graham-
Thanks SO MUCH for the very good answer. The pictures especially. I'm very much a visual learner, and you clearly showed me what the inletting would involve... not bad at all.
Thanks again!
BTW, I am doing the percussion version.
Wes

I'm surprised you say the leaf mainspring is superior to the coil spring... Why do you say that? I would have thought the opposite... I'm not disagreeing, just commenting. I'm sure you have much more experience in these matters than do I... it's just that I thought coils were a modern "improvement".
Wes

Coils were a "cheaper to mfg" option.

The leaf spring keeps it's "spring" far longer than the coils, is noted to be a little faster etc and just plain tougher.

If the coils were better I'm sure Chambers, L&R, Davis etc would all be using them.

I respectfully disagree about the leaf spring being better than coil. "Tradition" is why the leaf spring is still being used. Chambers, Davis, and L&R, built traditional locks. Now it might be faster, I don't know. But what I'm basing, the coil spring on is CASS. They will tell you a Ruger with coil springs, will outlast a Colt or Colt clone with leaf springs.

I'll take my Siler lock, any day over my TC lock, but not because of the spring.

Went ahead and ordered an L&H lock.. though I think all I did was make an extra bit of work for myself. I don't mind doing the extra inletting on the stock, well within my capabilities... not sure how I want to finish the lock- instinct tells me to just leave the lockplate unfinished as it comes. I've got no experience with bluing or browning... though mebbe' this is the time to get it?? I have gotten to liking the matte gray finish of the lock.
Wes

When you get your RPL lock, find an old kerosene lamp--the kind with glass chimney and wick. Take off the chimney and use it to smoke the inside of the RPL lock. When you press it into the mortice, the soot will print on the wood that needs to be removed. Then the drill is pretty simple: smoke, press, remove, cut, repeat until the lock fits and functions. The trickiest part is right around the lock screw bolster as the RPL lock's is thicker and it is difficult to see where it is hanging up.

Thanks, Curator-
Wes