Just got a 54 cal lyman GPR

Any folks out there have 1 of these smokepoles and what they like to shoot. Im going prb. Thanks :thumbsup:

I own Two .50's, never had a misfire/dryfire yet,make sure to prime with FFFFg. Best of hunting :grin:

The one I had shot great with 60 grains 3f goex (my offhand practice load) and 100 grains 2f or 3f - shot equally well with either (hunting load). It was very accurate with the hunting load. For the first 300 shots or so, I used a .530 ball and .018 wonder-lubed ticking. Then after it was "broken in" it seemed the load went down with minimal ramrod pressure, easier than before, so I switched to a .535 ball.

Ditto on th 60gr fffg for targets. Mine tightens up again at 90gr for huntin' .530 ball and .018 patch. It also shoots great with 80gr ffg but I get a miss fire now and again with ffg.

On cleaning what size wire brush or plastic bristles brush do you use. My T.C. 50 brush just slides down the barrel. So what size brushes. Thanks.

Don't use a brush. :nono: Not necessary and a real pain to remove if/when it gets stuck. Just remove the nipple and pump soapy water through it with a patch on the jag. Then pump clean fresh water then dry and oil it and yer done. :grin:

I have always used a brush, usually with a cleaning patch over it to better scrub the bottom of the grooves as well as to help the patch stay in place. This is after I use a patch and jag to pump water thru the bore on my half stocks. This has always worked for me. The problem arises when brushes with bronze bristles are used. The bristles are very stiff and sometimes when at the bottom of the bore will not "reverse" when you try to pull out the rod. Then you have a brush stuck in the bore that is very tedious to remove. Some people avoid this by using an undersized bronze brush, but the best (and simple) solution is to only use brushes with plastic bristles.

85 grains of 2f Goex, .530 RB with mattress ticking lubed with Ballistol and water 4:1 for a "dry" lube. Prime with 4f Goex.

Never had a problem with bronze brushes, when you hit bottom turn cleaning rod clock wise,(that's to the right, so the brush doesn't unscrew, with folks that grew up with digitals), and it pulls right out.

X
David

that's just how i do mine.

I have a nylon bristle .308 chamber brush that works just fine in my.54 and .50's. Lyman/Investarms rifles have a patent breech that is around .350+" diameter, so all the patch swabbing with your .54 cal jag won't touch it. It may not be absolutely necessary, but I run the brush down into the patent breech and give it a twist to dislodge any crud that may have accumulated in that reduced diameter breech area.

If you try to use a 9mm/.38 jag with a patch, it will likely get stuck...

AZbpBurner said:

I have a nylon bristle .308 chamber brush that works just fine in my.54 and .50's. Lyman/Investarms rifles have a patent breech that is around .350+" diameter, so all the patch swabbing with your .54 cal jag won't touch it. It may not be absolutely necessary, but I run the brush down into the patent breech and give it a twist to dislodge any crud that may have accumulated in that reduced diameter breech area.

If you try to use a 9mm/.38 jag with a patch, it will likely get stuck...

Click to expand...

I happened to have a rod with a bronze .270 cleaning brush. I would just put a small patch on it and use it to clean the patent breech area.

No brush just soapy water and patch on a jag and rinse.
Here is a 3 shot target at 50yds.

Excellent shooting. I was shooting my 54 cal today at 35 yds 1st shot low but on target 2nd shot raised it up in line with the bulleyes 3rd shot moved it about a inch if that. All shots were too the right of bulleyes. Question do you chase your bullet in this situation. Was shooting 90 grs over a .015 lubed patch with a 530 round ball. First shot used a .010 patch and the roundball just about seated itself switched up and saw the difference with the .015. Thanks for any help. :thumbsup:

one guy's opinion:

never 'chase rounds'
-

it's bad for the head
it wastes powder and shot
it produces no worthwhile information
it subjects you to justifiable ridicule
(it will also make your hair fall out, your eyesight go bad, and your dog run off ... your spouse will run off with a rock musician and the bank will repossess your motor vehicle, but that's for another day)

shoot for a tight shot group, using the same point of aim throughout the string, and then adjust, either by moving the sights or 'Kentucky windage'

one guy's free opinion ... doubtless well worth the price

That's a lot of Kentucky windage for sights that don't move.

I'm following this thread because I'm looking at getting either the .50 or .54. I'm ordering the left hand one they have. I just can't decide on which caliber to get. It will be my first flintlock. My only muzzleloading experience is an inline.

How do you fix it shooting to the left if the sights are fixed? Good luck with your new rifle. They do look nice.

Most fixed sight are adjustable, by moving ( tapping the rear sight left or right.
To move impact of bullet to the left, slightly tap your rear sight to the left.
It only takes a little to move a lot.
Mark your rear sight and barrel with a pencil.
Tap your rear sight to the right if want to go right, and left to go left.
The front sight is tapped opposite to the direction you wish to go.
Remember only move a little.
Also use a piece of brass to engage your sight.
Do not hammer steel on steel.
Fred

Go with the .54 as it will be slightly lighter and less nose heavy compared to the .50.

old fords advice is sound. i have a 50 cal. and it is a tack driver. i bought it used, someone knew what they were doing did a false muzzle job on it. there is no riffling for about a 3/4 of an in. at the muzzle and the ball starts easy, i like it it works great. i use 77 gr. of goex with a 495 prb and .015 lubed patch.