Shooting Remington New Model Army .44s with round balls and conic

I took a pair of Remington New Model Armies out to try them with both round balls and conical bullets. The conicals shot so well I think they will become my default projectile in the Remmies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0MUpBA6JHo

So you load round balls at .454 dia. and bullets at .450 dia.? The lead ring appeared to be about the same and if anything was less with the round balls. I'm confused...

The conical has a rebated .450 base with .454 bands.

Ah ha! Thank you. :thumbsup:

I make my own with the same mold but am more prone to using he RB with a wad. I do love the accuracy of my 5 1/2" pieta Remy.

I'm quite curious about the cap jams. Front what I've read Thea aren't that often with a Remington, and you had a few in one go.

Apparently you haven't seen many of Mike's C&B revolver videos. :grin:

Aftermarket nipples make a big difference.

dicky what mold do you use? I would like to try some conicals in my '58

On another forum a member made up his own 240 grain conical that he just used hog hunting in Florida. The boar (3" tusks) charged and he shot it once- a little back- broke both ham bones, femoral artery, and exited the beast. The hog turned and ran only about 20 yards before dropping. Pretty impressive. The gun was a 1858 Remington.

Thanks for posting. I get back from overseas soon, and can't wait to get out and put some lead downrange out of my remington!!

I had actually never seen a conical loaded in a cap and ball gun.

I didn't realize the base was smaller and the bands were .454. That was nice to see and have explained. I may try those at some point as well, as nice as they worked for you.

I use the Lee .450 for my Piettas
I use their .456 for my ROAs.

The Remington is definitely more reliable about not having cap jams than the colt models.One day this spring,I shot 36 rounds through my Uberti remington with no malfunctions before cleaning and lubing(wish I could get half that through the Uberti 1860 Army w/o taking it apart). I applied JB WELD to the hammer face of the 1860 Army but it fell out after about 12 shots.What did I do wrong or not do?

Not really sure why you put JB Weld on the hammer face to begin with.

The only thing your did wrong was to expect an epoxy to stay put on a surface amidst repeated hammerings.

:idunno I t fails me as to what happens with some of you guy's Colts , MINE are straight out of the box Uberti and Piettas and can be all shot all day without any issues of cap jams etc

Probably the prep (or possibly lack thereof). Even a little dab like that needs to be degreased and and the surface roughed up. Done properly it should stay in there forever.

I ran into issues with the JB Weld putty. I was trying to repair a full cock notch on a tumbler that had been cut too deep. I roughed up the back of the notch with emery paper, cut a piece of brass to fit exactly into the notch and roughed up the back of it with emery paper (not an easy thing to do with a tiny bit like that). I then thoroughly de-greased everything, mixed up the JB Weld putty and put a tiny amount in the notch. I then put in the bit of brass and pressed it into place. I set everything aside to harden and let it set on my bench for a few days. I then re-assembled the lock and it worked just fine as I had planned.......for about 4 or 5 shots and then the brass piece fell out. I gave up on repairing it and went ahead and replaced the tumbler and all was fine. No idea why the JB Weld failed but it did. I guess there was just not enough surface for it to bond well.

I meant to say I filled in the notch in the hammer(someone here said that would help to keep cap fragments from falling into the cylinder/frame area).

In this case I think the cap jams are related to the cylinders I was using. I did a trade for some used Remington cylinders. I thought I'd save time on range day by pre-loading a bunch of cylinders at home the night before.

All my jams were on those spare cylinders. The cylinders supplied with the guns worked fine.

The cylinders I got in trade were advertised as Pietta cylinders, and they all mounted on my gun, so I thought I was good to go. But I was wrong

All those spare cylinders were a bit short in my Pietta NMAs. There was enough fore and aft movement under the impact of the hammer fall and from recoil to cause the jams.

As it turns out, those cylinders fit my Uberti NMA perfectly.

Lesson learned...Uberti cylinders, being smaller will function on a Pietta gun, but you can't get a Pietta cylinder into an Uberti gun...

That's a relief! Not that Remington's can't/won't, but them being less prone is one reason why I figured it best to start there. Caps jams become frustrating at the range quickly.

I do really want a model Colt or three ('47 Walker, '62 Police/Navy, '51 Navy) , but figure I'd save the learning curve of working on these for when I've become more familiar, and can get the tools needed.

hello
can you please tell what size of caps to use on no 10 or no 11? for the Uberti 1858 remington new army carbine ?

i had a box of no 11 winchester mag, tired these no 11 today and had a lot of mis fires.

since i bought this new without a owners manual i wasnt sure if i need to buy a box of no 10 caps.

appears that the winchester no 11 caps are not fitting right to get a charge.

can you or any other person let me know please thank you