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GPR and the L&R Lock

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daboone

32 Cal.
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I've started a Lyman's GPR kit. The lyman lock fit fine but now I've started in-letting for the L&R and this picture says it all. :hmm: Picture is with the wedge pins inserted and the lock mounting screw lightly tightened.
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I guess I'll call L&R and TOW to see what they suggest.
 
A question from me, you didn't ask for. Why change locks, if the Lyman lock works fine?
 
My son gave me the lock when I told him I was building the kit. He said it's a much better lock and he has one on his GPR. He also gave me a Davis trigger group for it. I wanted to install it right off rather than go back later.

I've been waiting to start this build till it got hot here in Phoenix and today it was 108.
 
Calling Lyman, TOW or L&R is probably not gonna be much help, you screwed up by inletting it. You pay the consequences. :idunno:

1: If the Lyman lock lined up like that, you should have sent it All back.

2: It is obvious the pan was not going to align with the vent with the L&R lock, you should not have inlet it.

3: You're screwed.... Now if you move the barrel forward the wedge pins will not align & trigger is not going to be right.

4: My suggestion is to call Lyman or Pecatonica & get another stock & start over.


Keith Lisle
 
I have a Lyman deerstalker , same locks, and can switch the L&R RPL lock and the original Lyman/Investarm locks without issue.
If the Lyman lock lines up properly take some measurements on both and see just where the problem actualy is. Are you sure the L&R lock you have is the one made for a Lyman/Investarm?
Pete
 
petew said:
...Are you sure the L&R lock you have is the one made for a Lyman/Investarm?
Pete

That was my suspicion too, as he said the Lyman lock worked. Enjoy, J.D.
 
The lock is listed in the TOW catalog as
" #lock-LR-05-F upgrade lock for Lyman GPR". And goes on to state "It requires deepening the lock mortise slightly....."
The lock I got appears to be the same as the photo in the TOW catalog. The invoice also states it is the said lock.
 
Ask your son where he bought the lock.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance from the rear of the lockplate to the center of the pan and write the dimension down.

Then, give the seller a phone call. Tell him/her what the problem is and tell them the distance you measured adding, "...Is there another lock that's made for the GPR with the center of the pan closer to the rear of the lock?"

If your lucky this lock was made for some other gun and they will exchange the right lock for the one you have.

Giving them the dimension from the rear of the lockplate to the center of the pan will give them a real number they can compare with the other locks they have on hand. It's a lot better than just saying, "This dam lock don't fit my gun." :grin:
 
daboone said:
My son gave me the lock when I told him I was building the kit. He said it's a much better lock and he has one on his GPR.


Then there are those folks who feel the L&R locks are little more than a lock kit to build a good lock from. :stir:
 
A follow up to my initial post. I contacted TOF and was told to give R&L lock company a call. The gentleman I talked to told me the vent flash hole being off center with the pan would not be an issue with a flintlock's ignition.

This will not be pleasing to the eye but as the mortise has be inleted for this lock it's a little late to turn back.

This is a first time kit for me. I've really enjoyed working it it thus far and except for this set back I will continue to enjoy working on and finishing up this project.
 
daboone said:
...the vent flash hole being off center with the pan would not be an issue...

He's correct, but did you send him that picture? :shocked2: Did they assure you that you have the correct RPL lock?

Something's not right if you have the right lock and all else is as it should be. You say the original lock fit, if that's the case then the correct RPL should line up better than that.

I wouldn't use that lock with the line up it has now. Good luck and Enjoy, J.D.
 
Then there are those folks who feel the L&R locks are little more than a lock kit to build a good lock from.

J.D. For a long time I have felt like I was alone in my liking of L&R locks. I have two, a Classic and a Late English, both flint. Love them both. Both are great sparkers and well finished.
I also have a Davis Jaeger which is, in my experience and opinion, a lesser quality than El Cheapo imports I have had the misfortune of encountering over the years. Davis was lousy in their customer service with this thing (I hate to acknowledge it is a flintlock, it is a 'thing').
For the record I also have an older Siler which is an incredible lock that has served me without fail for over forty years.
However, at our last club shoot we got discussing locks and I really got jumped on by everyone there :shocked2: by stating I felt L&Rs were superior to Davis.
So...I dunno. :idunno: Did I get the two only good locks L&R ever made and the only El Crappo ever made by Davis?
If I ever get another rifle made it will have either an L&R or a Chambers.
 
Take a photo of the Lyman lock installed and let us see the difference. Either the lock is wrong or the inlet is wrong.
 
I can tell you the vent hole being off isn't going to matter. My Lyman Trade vent hole is almost identical in position to your lock and works just fine. Mine was from factory, not kit built. Is that your concern?
 
That is true.
One of the nice things about a flintlock is the vent hole can be quite a long distance from the ideal location and it will still work quite nicely.

Actually, with the vent located where it is in the photo, the fence just behind it might even direct more of the pan flash into it than would happen if the vent was in the "right" place.
 
Thank you for the many responses. As a total greenhorn I value your ideas and suggestions.

This being my fist kit and mentally wanting every thing to be as perfect as a kit allows I've found myself short of that mental goal. Never the less even with the alignment as it is I'm feeling a great deal of satisfaction with this beautiful flintlock. No it's no match to the phenomenal craftsmanship seen posted here. BUT this one is mine and I'm afraid I've been bitten and will be looking to start another kit, perhaps TOW's 1803 Harper's Ferry.

Tomorrow at first light I'll be heading out to see her first flash in the pan and sight her in before it get to hot here in the SouthWestern desart.

Thank again for your input, suggestions and advice.
 

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