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Fowler build pics

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mikemeteor

45 Cal.
Joined
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Building my first fowler from a blank.
New England style, steel hardware, 44" 16ga. Colerain OTR barrel.
Since we're entering winter, I get restless and like to take pictures as I go, so I hope to share them here as I go.
Hopefully folks can pitch in with constructive ideas, and/or new builders can learn along too as I make progress... and make mistakes.

Warning!: This should be viewed as more a "shared experience" than a tutorial!
I'll leave the tutorials to the pros.

Brought the piece of Dunlap stockwood home from having the barrel inlet and RR hole drilled by Mark Wheland, top notch builder as well as a tremendously helpful and friendly guy.

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Mark helped lay out the pattern too.
Then off to the bandsaw and I knocked off the big chunks that didn't look like a fowler stock.

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Laid out rough lock panel location before taking down lower forestock area.

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Checked breechplug fit -it was good on this Colerain.
Installed the plug and bent it in my vise to match the topline profile i was after.

Laid out the lines, and inlet the breechplug.
I really like the heavy mortise chisel for chopping in the tang bolster inlet.

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(You can see I use red lipstick as transfer medium. The s-hook is my temporary barrel lifting rig to avoid false marks and minimize inlet deformation - avoids need to "pry" the barrel/plug out by muzzle end.)
The breech tang has plenty of meat on it, so I'll be filing it down to final top-line profile later.
Laid out a 1/8" cast-off at butt and quit for the day.

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Next up: barrel lugs and pin drilling.
 
This will be fun.

Thanks for posting as you go.

From the looks of your guns I've seen so far this should be a nice one too.

I've built one fowler with that same barrel and lock.

Greg
 
MM, could you please give a little more info on your s-lifter? Thank you.
 
Nice work so far and the lift hook is a good idea.

Noticed a flat length of tang behind the breech end of the bbl. Starting the downward wrist shape at the breech end of the bbl or slightly into the end of the bbl yields a very pleasing wrist architecture. Of course you possibly have to do further filing of the tang?....Fred

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dogman said:
MM, could you please give a little more info on your s-lifter? Thank you.
one of Tracks underlugs attached to barrel with JBWeld.
I stick a screwdriver thru the S-hook and pull straight up.
Apply heat when done and it pops right off.
Also makes it clear which is the top flat, so I don't cut the lug dovetails on the wrong flat later.
doh2.gif

This wasn't my idea -I got it off this forum, wish I could remember who to credit !

flehto said:
Starting the downward wrist shape at the breech end of the bbl or slightly into the end of the bbl yields a very pleasing wrist architecture. Of course you possibly have to do further filing of the tang?....Fred
thanks Fred, yes I hope to be able to achieve that slope by filing when I get around to shaping that area.
I know some folks don't mind ending up with the rearmost part of the tang pretty thin - 1/8" or even less.
/mike
 
Cutting a notch in the corner where the underside of the tang meets the lug helps the bend to start a little closer to the breech. This reduces that flat area Fred was talking about.
 
Colerain's tangs are way to thick to begin with, which is OK as it gives you plenty to work with.

First thing I do is cut the bolster so the back line is straight up and down, instead of that slant they provide...personal preference, I guess. Then bend the tang and file the bump out, (as Mike plans to do) as there is plenty of metal left to do it that way.

Then I thin and taper the tang front to back, shape tail (if desired) and inlet.

This just works for me, for now. Enjoy, J.D.
 
Thanks for posting. This looks like it is going to be a lot of fun. The hook lift on the barrel is a great idea. :thumbsup:
 
Installed barrel lugs.
quite possibly the easiest task associated with a build, altho I know some are initially nervous about taking a hacksaw blade to the barrel.

Laid out location of RR pipes and lugs - no conflict whatsoever for this gun, with 4 lugs and 3 pipes.

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One dovetail lug in the octagon section of barrel.
Followers of this forum have seen this process illustrated two dozen times
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.
I used hacksaw, files and upsetting chisel.
Narrow pillar files are really nice for this.
Once the fit is close, I file the lug base(not the mortise)for the final fit, and tap in using a piece of flat stock to keep hammer away from barrel.
Mine may not be as pretty as others - but the lug is not going anywhere.

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Three lugs soldered on.
Pulled out my handy dandy hacksaw blade soldering clamp.
Got this tip from Birddog (Keith Lisle) and it's a keeper for sure. Thanks Keith !
Needed both hands to solder tho, so couldn't take a picture of that activity.
I could have thinned down the bases a little more prior to application.

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then I inlet the lugs. Boring.
lipstick marks, small Xacto, small homemade chisel from music wire.
Cut, scraped, wiggled, and otherwise worried the wood outta the little slot.
I try to avoid avoid breaking thru to the RR channel.
Then marked and inlet their bases.

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That's it for now - I never said I was fast.
Off to chase deer in the PA woods for the weekend.
/mm
 
This is a good thread and I`m going to be following it because I just started my Northwest Gun build. I`m just about at the same stage as you are MeteorMan. I`m working with a precarve stock from Pecatonica though. I got my stock with only the barrel and ramrod channel done so I`ll still have to do the inletting for everything else. I`ve got the barrel set back and am working on the tang inlet now.

I don`t expect to get alot done on it till after Christmas though because our muzzleloader deer season starts tomorrow and runs till the 23rd.
 
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